Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
We found unexpectedly at Mvíta—the ‘Mombas Mission’ having been kindly
received—a reception which could not be called friendly. Small
communities are rarely remarkable for amiability, and these citizens are
taxed by the rest of the coast-people with overweening pride, insolence
of manner, bigotry and evil speaking, turbulence and treachery. They
cannot forget their ancient glories, their hereditary chiefs who ruled
like kings with Wazirs, Shayhks of tribes and Amirs or chief captains
commanding hosts of savage warriors. Of course they regret the Mazara
whom they themselves were the first to betray—they would betray them
again and regret them again to-morrow. Like all ‘civilized’ Africans,
they are not only treacherous and turbulent, but also inveterate thieves
and pilferers: few travellers have failed to miss some valuable in the
boat that lands them. Lies were plentiful as pronouns. Whilst some for
their own purposes made very light of travel in the interior, others
studiously exaggerated the expense, the difficulty, and the danger; and
recounted the evils which had befallen Dr Krapf because he refused to
take their advice. As I determined to disregard both, so they combined
to regard us as rivals and enemies. They devoted all their energies to
the task of spoiling us; and failing in that matter, they tried
bullying: on one occasion I was obliged to administer, sword in hand,
the descent down-stairs. The Jemadar Tangai, a gaunt Mekrani some 60
years old, and measuring 6 ft 2 in., insisted courteously upon supplying
an escort, with the view of exchanging his worthless swords for our guns
and revolvers: he could neither read nor write, but he was renowned for
‘’Akl,’ intellect, here synonymous with rascality. His son Mustafa
brought a present of goats and fruit, for which he received the normal
return-gift; he expected a little cloth, gunpowder, and a gold
chronometer. We were visited by a certain Shafei Shaykh; by a Mombasah
merchant, Jabir bin Abdullah el Rijebi, who seemed to think that men
should speak in his presence with bated breath: he almost merited and he
narrowly escaped being led out of the room by his ears. The very Hindus
required a lesson of civility. We were on the best of terms with the
Wali or Governor, Khalfan bin Ali el Bu Saídí, a fine specimen of the
Arab gentlemen: he was on board when the Sayyid died, and he told us all
the particulars of that event. But the manifest animus of the public was
such as to make a residence at Mombasah by no means pleasant to us.
Considering the intense curiosity of civilized humanity to know
something of its fellow-men in the state so-called of nature, of the
savages which now represent our remote ancestors, I proceed to sketch
the typical tribe of this part of Africa. My principal authority is M.
Rebmann, who during nine years has made a conscientious study of the
race, and who imparted his knowledge with the greatest courtesy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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