Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Sundry excursions delayed us six days at Tanga. We failed to bag any
hippopotamus, the animals being here very timid. A herd of six,
commanded by a large black old male, gave us a few long shots; at first
the beasts raised the whole head and part of the neck; afterwards
nothing but the eyes were exposed. The people declare that they always
charge a man who has left a pregnant wife at home. Our only result was
the dropping of my big Beattie (2 barrelled, 24 lbs.) into the water. I
had fired it when sitting in a mangrove tree, and ‘purchase’ being
wanted, I narrowly escaped following it. The river, however, was only 2
fathoms deep, and we presently recovered it by diving: the Arabs usually
claim half the value of things thus reclaimed.
Our visit ended with a distribution of embroidered caps and Jamdani
muslins, and we received farewell visits till dark. At 5 A.M. on Feb.
2nd, after a sultry night varied by bursts of rain, which sounded like
buckets sluicing the poop, we drifted out to sea under the influence of
the Barri or land-breeze. Five hours of lazy sailing ran us to an open
road between Tanga and Panga-ni, called Mtangata, which, according to
the guides, was derived from the people living on toasted grains during
war or famine. It is evidently the Portuguese ‘Montagane,’ whose Shaykh,
with 200 men, assisted in 1528 Nuno da Cunha against the Sultan of
Mombasah. Exposed to the N. East wind, and imperfectly defended by two
low and green-capped islets, Yambe (North) and Karangú (East), it is
rendered by the surf and rollers of the Indian Ocean a place of
trembling to the coast sailors. The country appears fertile, and a line
of little villages, Kisizi, Marongo, Tamba-ni, and others, skirt the
shore. Here we spent the day, in order to inspect some ruins, where we
had been promised Persian inscriptions and other curios.
After casting anchor, I entered a canoe and was paddled across a bay
once solid ground, in whose encroaching waters, according to local
tradition, a flourishing city, extending over the whole creek side, had
been submerged. The submarine tombs were like those of the Dead Sea:
apparent to the Wasawahili’s eyes, they eluded mine. The existing
settlements are all modern, and none of them appear upon Capt. Owen’s
charts. After an hour’s work we pushed up a narrow creek, grounding at
every ten yards, and presently we reached an inlet, all mangrove above
and mud below. Landing at a village called Tongo-ni, where the people
stood to receive us, we followed the shore for a few paces, turned
abruptly to the left, over broken ground, and sighted the ruins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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