Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
‘So withered and so wild in their attire,
That look not like th’ inhabitants o’ th’ earth,
And yet are on’t’—
planted their shoulder-cloths, their rude crates, and their coarse weirs
upon the muddy inlets where fish abounded. The sky was sparkling blue,
the water was bluer, and over both spread the thinnest blue haze,
tempering raw tones of colour to absolute beauty. On both sides of the
shrinking stream a dense curtain of many-tinted vegetation,
‘Yellow and black, and pale and hectic red,’
shadowed swirling pools, where the current swept over the growth of
intertwisted fibres. The stunted Mkindu, brab or wild date (Phœnix
sylvestris), much used for mats, contrasted with the Nakhl el Shaytan,
or Devil’s Date (Raphia Vinifera), which, eccentric in form and
frondage, curved arms sometimes 30 and even 35 feet long, over the
dancing wave: this dwarf-giant of the palms has no trunk to speak of,
but each midrib is thick as a man’s thigh, and the vegetable kingdom
cannot show such length of foliage. Not a few of the trees were so
distinguished by oppositions of tall and sturdy trunk supporting frail
and tender belongings, that they seemed to bear leaves and blossoms not
their own. Upon the watery margin large lilies of snowy robe, some
sealed by day, others wide expanded and basking in light and air,
gleamed beautifully against the black-green growth and the clear
bitumen-brown of the bank-water. In scattered spots were inhuman traces
of human presence; tall arecas and cocoas waving over a now impenetrable
jungle; whilst plantains, sugar-canes, limes, and bitter oranges, choked
with wild verdure, still lingered about the broken homestead and around
the falling walls, blackened by the murderer’s fire. And above all
reigned the peculiar African and tropical stillness of noontide, deep
and imposing, broken only by the curlew’s scream or by the tepid breeze
rustling the tree-tops in fitful gusts, whispering among the matted
foliage, and swooning away upon the warm bosom of the wave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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