Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Another hour’s marching, and a total of six miles, as shown by the
pedometer, brought us to the Makam Sayyid Sulayman, a partially cleared
ring in the thorny jungle. It was bounded on one side by a rocky and
tree-fringed nullah, where water stagnates in pools during the dry
season; and here ensued a comical scene. The whole party went to drink,
when suddenly all began to dance and shout like madmen, pulling off
their clothes and frantically snatching at their lower limbs. It was our
first experience of that formican fiend, the bull-dog ant (Siyáfú or
Ch’hungu Fundo),[35] black, and a good half inch long, which invariably
reserves its attentions for the tenderest portions of the person
attacked. The bite of this wretch, properly called ‘atrox,’ burns like
the point of a red-hot needle, and whilst engaged in its cannibal meal,
literally beginning to devour man alive, even when its doubled-up body
has been torn from the head, the pincers will remain embedded in flesh.
Moreover, there are the usual white ants (Ch’hungu Mchwa, Termes
fatalis), death upon your property; the ginger-coloured Ch’hungu ya
moto, whose name ‘fire-ant’ describes its bite, and the hopper ant, who,
like the leopard, takes a flying leap from the nearest branch, and
cleverly alighting upon the victim, commences operations. And where the
ant is in legions, one of the most troublesome is the smelling ant
(Ch’hungu Uvundo), which suggests that carrion is concealed behind every
bush. Verily, in Africa, as was said of the Brazil, the ant is king, and
he rules like a tyrant.
We spent the night in a small Babel of Baloch. It was a savage opera
scene. One recited his Koran, another prayed, a third told funny
stories, whilst a fourth trolled out in minor key lays of love and war,
made familiar to my ear upon the rugged Sindian hills. This was varied
by slapping away the lank mosquitoes that flocked to the gleaming
camp-fires, by rising occasionally to rid ourselves of the ants, and by
challenging the small parties of savages who, armed with bows and
arrows, passed amongst us, carrying grain to Panga-ni. The Baloch kept a
truly oriental watch. They sang and shouted, and they carefully fed the
camp fire during early night, when there is no danger; but all slept
like the dead through the ‘small hours,’ the time always chosen by the
African freebooters, and indeed by almost all savages, to make their
unheroic onslaughts. Similarly, throughout our expedition to the Lake
Regions, the ‘soldiers’ never dreamed of any precaution whilst in
dangerous regions. As we approached the coast, however, sentinels were
carefully set, that all might be well which ends well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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