Zigzag Journeys in Europe: Vacation Rambles in Historic LandsButterworth, Hezekiah
General
Zigzag Journeys in Europe: Vacation Rambles in Historic Lands
Butterworth, Hezekiah
England -- Description and travel -- Juvenile literature; France -- Description and travel -- Juvenile literature
A series of easy rides near the cool sea brought the Class to the old
fishing village of Étretat, now a fashionable summer resort for French
artists, and a popular bathing-place for those desiring seclusion amid
the coast scenery. It is situated amid rocks which the sea has
excavated into arches, aiguilles, and other fantastic recesses and
caverns. Its pretty châlets and villas on the hills, its gayly-dressed
summer idlers, its groups of fishermen who are to be seen in all
weathers, its handsome fisher girls bronzed by the sun who lead a free
life by the sea, its bathers in brilliant dresses of blue serge and
bright trimmings, its bracing air and usually fine weather, make it
one of the quaintest and most restful nooks in France.
There are the remains of a Norman church near the sea. It is said to
occupy the spot where the people watched the great flotilla of William
the Conqueror drift to St. Valery, there to take the Norman army to
England.
A French watering-place is quite different from an American seaside
resort. You have your board and sleeping-room in one of the hotels,
but your parlors, piazzas, and places of recreation are in an elegant
pleasure house, called the _Casino_. For the privileges of the Casino
you pay a small sum; at Étretat it amounts to about ten dollars a
month. The billiard-rooms, ball-room, and the rooms for general
conversation are in the Casino.
Every one bathes in the sea at Étretat, women and children, whole
families together, and most of the girls are expert swimmers. It is
delightful to sit upon the _shingle_, as the pebbly beach is called,
and watch the sport in the sun-bright mornings or golden and dreamy
afternoons. The costumes of the bathers are so pretty that the scene
seems like a ball in the sea. Bathing men are stationed here and there
to render any needed assistance.
The great caverns which the sea has worn in the rocks at Étretat
remind one of the ruins of immense cathedrals, and are grand indeed in
the light of the full summer moon.
The place abounds with story-telling fishermen. The Class was told one
story here which is worthy of a poem.
"A beautiful stream once watered the valley. Its bed may still be
seen, but it now runs under ground. On the stream an industrious
miller built his mill and did a thriving business. One day a woman,
sick and destitute, came to him for help. He turned heartlessly away
from her with abuse. The poor creature raised her withered arm, and
said,--
"'To-morrow thou shalt have thy reward.'
"When the miller awoke the next morning he found his mill standing on
dry ground. The river had gone down into the earth, where it still
runs."
[Illustration: TOWER OF JOAN OF ARC, ROUEN.]
The fisher's hymn which Ernest Wynn gave the Club at its first meeting
was asked for here by Master Lewis, and was procured. It is sung
before the departure of ships and during great storms in the fishing
season, being a part of the mass for seamen, or the _messe
d'equipage_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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