The Masons, whose history I used to hear, were among the founders
of New Providence, the vanished village of the autumnal Berkshire
Hills. I well recall the stories of Elder Leland that I used to hear
in my old Swansea home, and especially the awful ghost-story that the
courtly evangelist used to relate confidentially to a few friends. No
Rhode Island farmer’s boy of thirty years ago will ever forget that,
and any allusion to it would make, in those days, young feet nimble
in dark chambers and on lonesome roads.
Times have, indeed, changed. No ghost-story, however vivid, would be
likely to make a Rhode Island boy nervous to-day.
I recall also the more cheerful story of the great Cheshire Cheese,
as we used to hear it, and have often repeated, in my young churning
days, the New Providence receipt for turning cream into butter under
the miracle-working influence of the old-time dasher:—
“Come, butter, come;
Peter stands at the gate,
Waiting for the butter-cake,
Come, butter, come.”
The rhyme of this persuasive ditty is not perfect, and I am unable
to say who “Peter” was, though the name sounds Apostolic; but the
Cheshire and Rhode Island farmers’ wives could all declare that this
brief invocation gave a wonderful efficacy to the churn-dasher.
I shall never forget my first excursion into Cheshire to visit the
once famous farms of New Providence, and the graves of Elder Leland
and the heroes of Bennington. It was a glimmering September day, such
as brings the tourist of New York to Lenox, not far away.
The sky was an over-sea of gold. The Housatonic lay, here like a
mirror of glass in the brown woodland pastures, there purling amid
purple gentians over mossy dams.
The wrecks of old orchard trees dotted the landscape; fading
beech-trees, with their bark perforated by the long bills of the
golden-winged woodpeckers; aftermath in alluvial meadows; cornfields
with orange banners on the uplands, and, over all, Greylock,
green-wooded and maple-tinted, looking down the valley.
Graveyards—like little villages of the dead—with mossy stones,
touched the heart and fancies, and the town at last came full in
view, with its white spire and faded inn.
“Where is New Providence?” I asked of an old man who had stopped to
rest on the cool russet sward under a leafy maple, where the locusts
were singing in the bright air.
“There is no New Providence any more,” said he. “It is all gone: the
hotels, the stores, the churches, all—there is not a house left.
There is where it _was_.”
He pointed toward a sunny slope. How beautiful was the situation!
But there was not so much as a house or an orchard. Shades of Oliver
Goldsmith! Could it be possible that here in New England was a
veritable Deserted Village?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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