Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
David Hume · en
The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all pretty or
graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally made of
some gaily coloured material, and in the case of rich women of bright
brocaded silk or velvet, and a very short skirt, just the length of a
ballet dancer's. In fact their dress is an exact copy of the Parisian
ballet dancer. Many years ago all the women wore those picturesque
baggy trousers, with long flowing garments over them, but while one
of the late Shahs was visiting Europe he saw the ballet dancer,
and his fancy was so taken by the costume, that on his return he
ordered all the inmates of the royal harem to adopt the same dress;
and as royalty always sets the fashion for the country, in a short
time all the Moslem women of Persia had adopted this hideous fashion.
I remember so well the first time I saw this costume; it was the
evening of the day on which we first arrived in Isphahan. After dinner
Miss Stuart (the bishop's daughter) and I were walking on the roof
of their house, when suddenly a woman appeared on the other side
of a wall and began chattering with Miss Stuart. I felt inclined to
look the other way, thinking the good lady had forgotten to complete
her toilet, but seeing that Miss Stuart did not seem surprised,
I supposed it was all right, and so began to feel more at ease;
but certainly the first sight of these costumes is rather alarming,
especially if the woman is not wearing the long stockings, as they
generally do, but often leave off in very hot weather. On their heads
they wear a square of white muslin, and flowing down their backs,
and attached by a pin to their hair, is a long, graceful chuddar,
generally made of a pretty muslin or silk; and as the women walk
about the house, these chuddars flow behind, and look very graceful
indeed. The ladies do not like the fashion of the short skirts,
and many were the requests made to me to cut out dresses such as I
was wearing, and if I had wished, I could have had my time in Kerman
fully occupied in cutting out dresses according to European fashion;
but with the exception of pleasing two or three of my special friends,
I always told them I had no time for dressmaking, but would always be
pleased to lend them patterns. So ashamed were some of the women of
their short skirts, that they would often take their long, flowing
chuddars from their heads and wrap them round their waists, giving
the appearance of a draped skirt.