"We have come from Breda in two days, and lay last night at Bois-le-duc,
which is situated in the midst of a lake, and is absolutely impregnable.
That part of Brabant, through which we travelled, is not very fertile,
and is full of sandy heaths. Nimeguen is in the Gueldre, the pleasantest
province of the seven, perhaps of the seventeen. The land is beautifully
divided into heights and plains, and is cut by the branches of the
Rhine. Nimeguen has a very commanding prospect, and the country below it
is particularly remarkable at present because of the innundation of the
Wahal, a branch of the Rhine, which covers the whole fields for several
leagues; and you see nothing but the tops of trees standing up amidst
the waters, which recalls the idea of Egypt during the inundations of
the Nile. Nimeguen is a well-built town, not very strong, though
surrounded with a great many works. Here we met our machines, which came
hither by a shorter road from the Hague. They are a berline for the
general and his company, and a chaise for the servants. We set out
to-morrow, and pass by Cologne, Frankfort, and Ratisbon, till we meet
with the Danube, and then we sail down that river for two hundred and
fifty miles to Vienna.
"_Cologne, 23d March._
"We came hither last night, and have travelled through an extreme
pleasant country along the banks of the Rhine. Particularly Cleves,
which belongs to the King of Prussia, is very agreeable, because of the
beauty of the roads, which are avenues bordered with fine trees. The
land in that province is not fertile, but is well cultivated. The
bishoprick of Cologne is more fertile and adorned with fine woods as
well as Cleves. The country is all very populous, the houses good, and
the inhabitants well clothed and well fed. This is one of the largest
cities in Europe, being near a league in diameter. The houses are all
high; and there is no interval of gardens or fields. So that you would
expect it must be very populous. But it is not so. It is extremely
decayed, and is even falling to ruin. Nothing can strike one with more
melancholy than its appearance, where there are marks of past opulence
and grandeur, but such present waste and decay, as if it had lately
escaped a pestilence or famine. We are told, that it was formerly the
centre of all the trade of the Rhine, which has been since removed to
Holland, Liege, Frankfort, &c. Here we see the Rhine in its natural
state; being only a little higher (but no broader) on account of the
melting of the snows. I think it is as broad as from the foot of your
house to the opposite banks of the river."
"_Bonne, 24th March._