And Hume's motions seem to have partaken of the pomp and regularity of
his official station; for, even in these familiar letters to his
brother, he is all along the secretary of legation; or when he descends
from that height, it is but to mount the chair of the scholar and
philosopher. There are no escapades. We never hear that he has taken it
in his head to diverge from the regular route to see an old castle or a
waterfall. Yet he went with an eye for scenery. The Alpine passes
excited his admiration, and his description of the banks of the Rhine
will be recognised at this day as very accurate--with one material
exception. He says nothing of the feudal fortresses perched like the
nests of birds of prey, to which their moral resemblance was at least as
close as their physical; and thus one of the greatest historians of his
age, passes through a country without appearing to have noticed in their
true character, this series of prominent marks of a remarkable chapter
in the history of Europe. He speaks of them simply as "palaces"--a word
not designative of the character of the buildings, or in any way
evincing that their historical position had occurred to his mind. But it
must be admitted, that later tourists on the Rhine have amply made up
for his silence on these matters.
He does not condescend to mention any one of the fine specimens of
Gothic architecture which he must have seen--not even that vast and
beautiful fragment the cathedral of Cologne. One wonders whether or not
he was at the trouble of inquiring, what was that huge mass which he
must have seen towering over the city; and if, straying within its
gates, and looking on Albert Durer's painted windows, he had curiosity
enough to inspect the reliquary of the tomb of the three kings,
containing gems so ancient, that they are conjectured to be older than
Christianity, and to have been the ornaments of some Pagan shrine,
transferred to and historically associated with the pure creed which
displaced the barbarous rites of Paganism. This might have at least
formed a curious topic for his Natural History of Religion. But on this
as on many other subjects, he would sympathize with La Bruyere when he
speaks of "L'ordre Gothique, que la barbarie avoit introduit pour les
palais et pour les temples;" and his thorough neglect of both the
baronial and ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages, is
characteristic of a mind which could find nothing worthy of admiration,
in the time which elapsed between the extinction of ancient classical
literature, and the rise of the arts and sciences in modern Europe.