Both Philip and his wife Isabel[12] were indefatigable in their pursuit
of pleasure, in which their tastes agreed. The two main amusements
were the theatre and the devotional celebrations in churches and
monasteries; and the immense number of these in Madrid and the
principal cities provided an endless choice of such festivities. The
splendour and glitter which the sumptuary {145} decrees prohibited so
sternly in secular life ran riot in the temples, and a generation
forbidden to be extravagant in their own persons flocked to the garish
festivities of the Church to find the sensuous enjoyment which the mere
sight of richness gave them. No opportunity, indeed, was lost of
getting up a religious show. Philip's second child[13] was born in
November 1623,--the condition of the Queen at the time of Charles
Stuart's departure having been the reason why Philip did not accompany
his guest farther on his road to the coast. The infant Princess,
Margarita Maria, only lived a month; but the ceremonial to celebrate
her baptism reads like the relation of a fairy-tale.[14]
[Illustration: PHILIP IV. AS A YOUNG MAN. _From a contemporary
portrait in the possession of His Grace the Duke of Wellington at
Strathfieldsaye._]
In July of the next year, 1624, a splendid {146} opportunity for
devotional display was provided by the action of a madman. The most
crowded church in Madrid was that of the Augustinian Monastery of St.
Philip, at the entrance to the Calle Mayor, upon whose steps and raised
sidewalk the idlers and gossips of the Court met to whisper scandal and
bandy satiric verse. Every morning from matins until the angelus bell
tolled the hour of noon, when the soup and bread at the gates were
doled to hungry authors, stranded poets, and idlers out of luck, Liars'
Walk was full. But rarely had such a sensation of horror pervaded it
as on the day just mentioned, when the congregation rushed in panic
from the church, with cries of horror that a heretic had knelt before
the high altar and had deliberately insulted the Holy Mystery there
displayed.[15] Horror upon horrors! and in the Court of the Catholic
King! For eight days the King and Queen, with all their Court in the
deepest mourning, peregrinated the capital, visiting shrines and making
propitiatory offerings. Every church in Madrid was draped in black,
and processions, rogations, and public flagellations of devotees went
on ceaselessly for a week, during the whole of which time "no stage
plays were allowed, and public women were forbidden {147} to ply their
trade." In the corridors of the palace itself separate altars were
raised for every royal personage, and all the jewels that the crown of
Spain could provide were piled upon them to appease the outraged
divinity.
[Sidenote: The Theatres of Madrid]