The frowning old Alcazar on the cliff overlooking the Manzanares, so
often mentioned as the scene of Philip's festivities, was unfit for
gaiety, and offered but few attractions to him. The Escorial for
similar reasons was never a favourite residence of his; and Aranjuez
was always insalubrious except in the spring. The Court therefore was
usually in residence in Madrid itself, or in the neighbouring hunting
seat of the Prado. But there was in the extensive and beautiful
grounds attached to the monastery of St. Geronimo at the east gate of
the capital a suite of apartments used {239} by the royal family for
religious or mourning retreats, or for an occasional guest house. It
occurred to Olivares in 1631 that this place might be made more
attractive, and used more frequently as a relief to Philip from the
stern mediæval palace at the other end of the town. The idea began
with the mere levelling of an inequality here, the clearing of a lawn
there, and the building of an aviary and a few fountains and summer
houses. But very soon the Count-Duke's ambition grew, and he and
Philip became fascinated and absorbed in the building of a palace which
became to the reign of Philip what Versailles was to that of Louis XIV.
[Sidenote: The Buen Retiro]
The palace of the Buen Retiro was intended by Olivares, and truly was,
a fit setting for the elegant, chivalric, and poetic surroundings of
the King, a light and pretty retreat in the midst of enchanting
gardens, where upon stages under the trees or in high and gilded halls
the witty dissolute comedies might be played to an audience of the
elect. Nothing that the inspiration of genius, the efforts of
flattery, or the exercise of unrestrained expenditure could compass was
spared by Olivares in making the Buen Retiro perfect for its purpose of
keeping the King diverted. An immense territory, in addition to the
monastery grounds, was appropriated for the purpose,[23] and Olivares
exhausted all the horticultural knowledge of the time in laying out
{240} the grounds with lakes, grottoes, and cascades; whilst in a very
short time there arose in all its beauty the palace that in future was
to be the symbol of Philip's elegant, picturesque, but useless reign.