The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
David Hume · en
It is a curious reflection that whilst all the serious acts and
surroundings of civilised life have been rendered amenable to the law,
whilst the very instincts inherent in the nature of mankind have been
dominated and regulated by authority, utter failure has attended the
persistent efforts of rulers to cope with the trivial follies of
fashion, or to limit the vanity and extravagance of personal adornment.
For long ages men, and particularly women, have insisted upon making
themselves absurd and uncomfortable, at great cost and in an infinite
variety of ways, in obedience to dictates or impulses springing from
nobody knows where, and have only consented to forego each succeeding
caprice when the taste for it has worn itself out and has given place
to another, perhaps still more preposterous than its predecessor.
It has been from no fault of the rulers that they have {208} been
beaten in their fight with fashion, for they have tried their hardest
for centuries. Our Plantagenet and Tudor sovereigns made many attempts
to regulate the dress and adornment of their subjects, but the motive
which mainly prompted them was the desire to differentiate the classes
and prevent the humbler citizens from emulating, in appearance at
least, their social superiors. In a state of society which depended
upon the subjection of the majority by the privileged classes, this
motive was perfectly reasonable; as was also the alternative one of
protecting a particular national industry, which, in Tudor times
especially, often furnished a reason for the imposition of sumptuary
enactments; but both of these motives, from their very nature, were
necessarily more or less ephemeral and artificial, because, on the one
hand, the continual social development, the growing wealth of the
traders and the emancipation of the labourers made the classes
interdependent; and, on the other, the extended seaboard of England and
the maritime enterprise of the inhabitants made the protection of a
particular industry by prohibiting foreign competition impossible for
any great length of time. The attempted interference, therefore, of
English sovereigns with the dress of their lieges was intermittent and
spasmodic, and was, at a comparatively early period, admitted to be
useless.