The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
David Hume · en
Only one year after the proclamation of the pragmatic just mentioned,
namely, in December, 1564, another elaborate decree was issued, on the
pretext that the previous one had left several points in doubt, and the
authorities had consequently been lax in enforcing it. The decree of
1563 had said that {230} one year's grace was to be given for garments
already made, and this concession had served as a loophole for the
evading the regulations altogether. The authorities are therefore
ordered strictly to enforce the decree; but the opportunity is taken of
elucidating doubtful points and still further modifying the severity of
the orders. It is now explained that the prohibition of gold, silver,
and silk stitching, gimp, or trimming of any sort on the garments,
referred only to applied trimmings, and was not meant to include the
weaving of gold or silk threads or stripes in the textures, or even the
sewing of stripes of silk or leather on to the garment, which stripes
might be bordered by a piping and held by two rows of ornamental
backstitch on each side, provided that no other sort of adornment is
used. Silk gimp even may be applied on garments for indoor wear,
whilst silk frogs may be sewn on to overcoats and travelling cloaks.
Fringes were also allowed on horse furniture and harness now, and
swordbelts and baldricks might be worn as rich as the taste and
extravagance of the owners cared to make them. Some doubt is said to
exist as to the legality of stuffing the trunk-hose with baize to
extend them, and whether the slashes might be lined with baize for the
same purpose, and these practices are strictly forbidden, "nor may
piping be inserted like farthingales, nor may threads, nor wires, nor
gummed silk be employed to extend the trunks unduly, as we are informed
has fraudulently been done." The previous pragmatic had imposed the
same penalties for infraction of the decree by people in their own
houses as in public, which appears to have caused much vexation by the
{231} invasion of domiciles by inferior officers, on pretext of
searching for forbidden garments, and the right of search was now
abolished.
An attempt to shame ladies into obeying the law was made for the first
time, of many, in these pragmatics of 1563-4 by giving to women of bad
character the right to deck themselves in prohibited finery in their
own houses. But Madrid was already commencing upon the downward career
which made it for more than a century the most dissolute place in
Europe, and women of rank even were proud of their effrontery, so that
no attempts to induce them to obey the law by appeals to their modesty
ever succeeded. The brazen-faced impudence of the Madrileñas, which so
shocked foreigners in the seventeenth century, still remains as a
cherished tradition of the fast-disappearing race of _majas_ and
_manolas_ of Lavapies and other low neighbourhoods of the capital, and
is encouraged in them as a national trait by their social betters.