Suddenly as I turned a corner there burst upon my view another and a
loftier peak than the one upon which stands the Moorish stronghold that
had hitherto been my objective. A crag so inaccessible it looked, as to
suggest that the imposing building upon it with its lofty towers was the
work of a magician. The royal palace of the Penha is this, piled up
rather than built upon a sheer precipice.[2] Here upon the highest point
of the rock of Lisbon was King Manuel the Fortunate wont to linger for
hours and days for many months together, climbing up from his palace in
the town below, that he might gaze far out upon the Atlantic, watching
and praying for the return of Vasco da Gama from his voyage to India
round the African continent, the route that in two generations the
impetus of Prince Henry the Navigator had opened up. There was but a
tiny Jeronomite hermitage or penitentiary here in this savage eyrie to
shelter the anxious king,[3] and during his vigils he vowed that if the
great explorer came home successful he would build upon the spot a
worthy monastery of the Order in memory of the event. The work must have
been a prodigious one, for even now the place is hardly accessible by
carriages, and the quantity and the weight of material necessarily
brought from below was enormous. This monastery like the rest, was
disestablished and secularised by the State in 1834, and King Ferdinand,
the consort of the Queen of Portugal, and a first cousin of Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert, bought the building for conversion into a
royal palace, as it remains to-day, and here he lived the latter years
of his life with his second wife, the ex-opera-dancer, the Countess of
Edla. Ferdinand altered his palace, in many cases with very doubtful
taste, Moorish and German baronial features being liberally grafted on
to the Manueline edifice, with the result that the whole building when
seen closely is a pretentious muddle, saved from contempt by some of its
ancient portions, and by its sublime situation.