The Museum of Fine Arts at Lisbon possesses, it is true, few objects of
importance, apart from the goldsmith’s work and ecclesiastical
embroidery, and the lack of a catalogue of the paintings—except for the
collection given to the nation by Count de Carvalhido—stands in the way
of their enjoyment. Most that is worth seeing here in pictorial art
comes from the suppressed religious houses and churches, especially the
early Flemish and German paintings, of which several are really fine.
But the collection of ancient pictures is so lamentable in condition as
a whole, and so badly lit, as to make the study of them difficult. Count
de Carvalhido’s large collection, which is separately housed in two
rooms in the Museum, contains a few good pictures and many by obscure
artists quite the reverse, the specimens of the Flemish and Germanic
schools predominating. The attribution of the works to named painters is
often quite wide of the mark, many pictures bearing no resemblance
whatever to the style of their alleged authors. There is, for instance,
a little panel attributed to Sir Thomas Lawrence. It is called
“Seduction,” and represents, in the usual eighteenth-century French
genre style, an interior with a young man seated at an open escritoire
offering jewels and money to a girl, whilst an old woman watches through
a half-closed door. Anything more unlike Lawrence, either in technique
or subject, it would be difficult to conceive. Another picture, a large
canvas attributed to Zaniberti, an Italian painter, who died in 1636,
represents a Carnival in Rome with a large number of maskers and
spectators, all of whom are dressed in the fashion of the late
eighteenth century, a hundred and fifty years after Zaniberti’s death.
But the wealth of church and altar plate more than makes up for the
shortcomings of the picture galleries. Monstrances in gold of great
antiquity and beauty, covered with precious stones, are to be seen
literally by the dozen. Silver gilt processional crosses of the
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, some almost Byzantine, some nearly
Mudejar in design, abound; chalices of unimaginable richness in pure
Gothic and Manueline styles, reliquaries in gold and gems beyond price,
and gold and enamelled crowns and girdles, altar crosses, and
candlesticks without number, are displayed in cases in a suite of rooms
commanding a fine view over the Tagus. Alcobaça has contributed the
lion’s share of these treasures, but Batalha and many other religious
houses have been placed under involuntary contribution; and the result
is a collection of early ecclesiastical art in gold and silver that I
have never seen approached elsewhere. The church vestments, too, are
rich and numerous beyond description; and a large series of beautifully
embroidered court dresses of the eighteenth century displays the
influence exerted by the Portuguese connection with the far East upon
artistic embroidery of the period.