An hour’s hard pull brought us close to the long island. A wild,
uninhabited place it looked as we approached it, all blown sand in dunes
and hillocks overgrown with coarse rank tussock and esparto. Even before
we reached the sandy shore, fragments of walls and broken tiles in
abundance could be seen through the pellucid water, half-buried in the
soft, sandy bottom; and when I landed upon the beach of pure sand some
twenty feet or more wide, a glance sufficed to show that this was the
site of a place where many people had dwelt in the long ago. A long sand
dune, some fifteen feet high, runs parallel with the sea, and in the
face of this dune strong walls, doorways, and ruins of all sorts are
embedded. The sand in many places has been removed sufficiently to
uncover entire rooms and passages, and the whole beach below is
literally covered with broken tiles, apparently Roman, which presumably
formed the roofs of the ruined dwellings. The walls are usually formed
of undressed stones, with some rubble cement almost as hard, the
courses, and sometimes corners, being composed of coarse red bricks or
tiles eighteen inches long by twelve broad and two thick.
Mounting the top of the dune I saw beneath me the houses that at various
times had been excavated, and partially cleared of sand by the
successive adventurers, who, for the sake of profit or curiosity, have
undertaken the work. It has been done unsystematically and
unscientifically; but in the three-quarters of a century or so that have
elapsed since renewed interest has been displayed in the place, an
immense number of Roman coins, some of the latest period of the
domination, have been found; and numerous relics of Roman, and, as I
believe, of a much earlier civilisation have also been discovered, many
of the objects being now in the Belem museum. Mr. Oswald Crawford wrote
an amusing account of a visit he paid to the place about thirty years
ago, and advanced some attractive theories with regard to it; but
apparently the excavations that have taken place since his time must
have been considerable, as some of the most significant features noticed
by me were presumably not uncovered when he was there, as he does not
mention them.