Opposite the temple is the Archæological Museum of Evora, containing a
large collection of Roman and mediæval relics, found in the city and
rescued from ruined buildings; and in the streets still the remains of
ancient architecture greet the visitor at every turn. Evora, indeed, is
a museum of itself; and it is impossible even to mention a quarter of
the objects in it that would appeal to an antiquarian or archæologist.
Two buildings there are, however, that cannot be entirely passed over.
The so-called palace of Dom Manuel is now used as an agricultural
museum, and some of the upper portion has been rebuilt in semi-Moorish
style; but the lower portion is intact, and is a splendid specimen of
early sixteenth-century stonework. The hall is low but tremendously
massive, the walls being three yards thick, and the octagonal pillars
supporting the simple groined roof in the centre being massive in
proportion.
From the beautiful semi-tropical public garden in which this palace
stands, just beyond the mediæval walls of the city, it is but a step
across the road to the extraordinary hermitage church of St. Braz. A
great plague had assailed Evora in 1479, and here a temporary pesthouse
was established outside the walls. The bishop vowed that if St. Braz
would free the place from the epidemic he would build here a permanent
temple to his honour. When the plague disappeared in the following year,
1480, the bishop kept his word, and the present church has stood here
ever since. The style, in my experience, is unique—Norman-Gothic local
archæologists call it—the building being a long, low, fortress-like
structure, with six pointed turrets along each side, and with
battlemented parapets; the two first turrets supporting a massive
battlemented ante-porch, with plain pointed arches and Byzantine
capitals, the porch being perhaps a third the length of the church, and
of the same height. For a building so late as the end of the fifteenth
century, just on the verge of the period that went crazy over the
exuberant Manueline, this survival of the Norman-Byzantine tradition is
extraordinary.