Connected with the walls of the ancient castle, and upon a somewhat
higher level than the keep, there stands the high round church of the
Templars, with buttresses of immense strength reaching to the parapet,
and a crumbling square bell tower upon one of its faces. Upon an ancient
slab let into the sides of the church an inscription tells how Dom
Affonso, first King of Portugal, and Gualdrim Paes, master of the
Portuguese Templars, constructed this edifice in 1108. Joined to this
ancient structure is one of the most astounding specimens of Manueline
architecture in Portugal, built in the early sixteenth century, when all
the country was pulsating with new life and eager longings. It is the
choir and chapter-house, and behind them is the ruin of the great
monastery of the Order of Christ. Words are weak to convey an idea of
the capricious splendour of the choir and chapter-house so far as they
remain undefaced, for later ages have done their best to spoil the
edifice. Eight cloisters have been built around it, and tacked on to it,
by the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Its lovely Manueline doorway
has been marred, and the east end of the building blocked as high as its
upper windows by the “Cloister of the Philips.”
[Illustration: THE CHOIR AND CHAPTER-HOUSE, THOMAR.]
But notwithstanding all the vandalism, enough of the Manueline building
remains intact to strike the beholder with reverent wonder at the
intricate beauty of the work, and the inexhaustible invention of the
design. The doorway stands in a recess reaching to the parapet, and
enclosed within an arch of surprising beauty, of which the under curve
is lined with an elaborate pendent ornament. Within the recess filling
the whole space and over the door itself, figures in niches stand under
canopies and upon pillars in which caprice and intricacy surpass
themselves. Coiled cables, bossed spirals, floreated pinnacles,
armillary spheres, crosses, and intertwined branches, stand out in high
relief and under cut, as if the sculptors had purposely sought
difficulties in order to overcome them. The arch of the door itself is
beyond description, so luxuriant is the design of the chiselled stone
which forms the three grooves and two spiral pilasters around it. The
parapet of the whole edifice is similarly rich, alternating the cross of
the Order with the armillary sphere; and although most of the lower part
of the walls is hidden, the view of the east end with its two corner
towers, as seen from the roof of the adjoining cloister, is magnificent.
The lower window, which lights the interior of the choir, is a massive
tangle of outstanding cables; each point being crowned by the cross and
the armillary sphere which formed the device of the grand master, the
famous Prince Henry the Navigator. Around one of the corner towers a
great chain cable, each link carved entire in stone, is braced, and
around the other an equally tremendous buckled belt, representing the