Essays on the Latin Orient — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Essays on the Latin Orient
John Stuart Mill · en
and a pupil of the great Homeric scholar, Eustathios, who was Archbishop
of Salonika. An ardent classical scholar, he had been enchanted at
the prospect of taking up his abode in the episcopal residence on the
Akropolis, of which he had formed the most glorified idea. But the
golden dream of the learned divine vanished at the touch of reality. It
was said of the Philhellenes, who went to aid the Greeks in the War of
Independence, that they expected to find the Peloponnese filled with
“Plutarch’s men”; finding that the modern Greeks were not ancient heroes
and sages, they at once put them down as scoundrels and cut-throats. The
worthy Michael seems to have experienced the same disillusionment and
to have committed the same error as the Philhellenes. Fallen walls and
rickety houses fringing mean streets gave him a bad impression as he
entered the city in triumphal procession. His cathedral, it is true, with
its frescoes and its offerings from the time of Basil the Bulgar-slayer,
with its eternal lamp, the wonder of every pilgrim, and with the noble
memories of the golden age of Perikles which clung round its venerable
structure, seemed to him superior to Sta Sophia in all its glory, a
palace worthy of a king. And what bishop could boast of a minster such
as the Parthenon? But the Athenians, “the off-spring of true-born
Athenians,” as he styled them in his pompous inaugural address, did not
appreciate, could scarcely even understand, the academic graces of his
style. The shallow soil of Attica had become a parched desert, where
little or no water was; the classic fountain of Kallirrhoe had ceased to
run, the olive-yards were withered up by the drought. The silk-weavers
and dyers, traces of whose work have been found in the Odeion of Herodes
Atticus, had disappeared. Emigration and the exactions of the Byzantine
officials completed the tale of woe, which Michael was ever ready to pour
into the ear of a sympathetic correspondent. In 1198, he addressed a
memorial to the Emperor Alexios Comnenos III, on behalf of the Athenians,
from which we learn that the city was free from the jurisdiction of the
provincial governor, who resided at Thebes, and who was not even allowed
to enter the city, which, like Patras and Monemvasia, was governed by its
own _archontes_. But it appears that the governor none the less quartered
himself on the inhabitants, and had thrice imposed higher ship-money on
Athens than on Thebes and Chalkis. Nor did the Metropolitan hesitate to
tell another Emperor, Isaac Angelos, that Athens was too poor to present
him with the usual coronation offering of a golden wreath. Yet, when the
Lord High Admiral came to Athens, he found merchantmen in the Piræus,
and the Government raised more out of the impoverished inhabitants than
out of Thebes and Eubœa. We must therefore not take too literally all
the rhetorical complaints of the archbishop, which are incompatible with
the great luxury of the Athenian Court under the French Dukes in the