Garden Pests in New Zealand: A Popular Manual for Practical Gardeners, Farmers and Schools
John Stuart Mill · en
Grass grub damage to grasses is not merely due to attack upon
the roots. While feeding, the grubs swallow soil with the roots,
rendering the former spongy, and so disturb the normal circulation
of moisture about the grass roots. In the case of infested lawns,
it is advantageous to roll infested areas in order to pack the soil
pulverised by the grubs, and re-establish normal circulation of soil
moisture. Another important feature in grub control is to stimulate
root development by means of fertilisers. A recently-developed method
of “grub-proofing” lawns is to broadcast over every thousand square
feet of turf to be treated one bushel of screened sand or clean soil,
in which 5lb. of lead arsenate powder have been intimately mixed. This
is said to remain effective for a period of three years; but such
fertilisers as nitrate of soda, superphosphate, sulphate of potash,
and potassium chloride should not be used on “grub-proofed” turf, as
they react with the lead arsenate, and reduce its effectiveness, though
rotted manure or ammonia sulphate may be used.
The control of grass grubs damaging the roots of strawberry and other
plants is a difficult matter, though some benefit is to be derived
by making holes about four inches deep with a stick in the soil near
to the infested plants and pouring in a little carbon bisulphide; the
holes should be closed immediately. To protect strawberry beds, if
they are not too extensive, the most satisfactory method is to cover
the plants with scrim, stretched on frames, at dusk during November
and early December, when the beetles are flying; this will prevent the
insects from infesting the ground with their eggs. The use of sulphur
smudges, already referred to, is of great importance in this respect.