Occasionally we saw a species of blacksnake that grows to a length
of more than twelve feet. It is perfectly harmless, but has the
disagreeable habit of haunting trails and footpaths near the villages.
When a pedestrian approaches it rears its head several feet above
the ground and calmly gazes into his face. The first few times this
happens, the sudden, upward lunge of the big head, the rapidly playing
tongue and the beady eyes give one a decided shock and provide ample
cause for flight. Later, one becomes more or less accustomed to it.
This snake was also plentiful in tropical Venezuela and Bolivia.
[Illustration: Nóvita, the largest town in the Chocó.]
It was impossible to secure fresh meat at Nóvita; salt beef was
imported in barrels, but it was of such poor quality that we could
not eat it. We therefore depended on toucans and parrots for our
meat-supply, and found both species very palatable.
The paper money used throughout the greater part of Colombia is not
recognized by inhabitants of the Chocó. It rots in the wet, hot
atmosphere and for that reason is valueless. Neither are gold coins
wanted, but some of the shopkeepers accepted them at a twelve per
cent discount. The money that finds favor is composed of silver coins
from Mexico and practically all the other South and Central American
republics; it is valued according to size, the “dollars” passing for
forty cents, the halves for twenty, and so on. I found a number of
United States half-dimes circulating at two cent, and dimes at four
cent values, and “collected” all that came within reach.