The top of the ridge is covered with tall, magnificent forest. We saw
numerous signs of bird and animal life. Toucans of several species
yelped and clattered their bills in the tall trees above. There were
also yellow-shouldered troupials, blue and yellow cotingas, brown
creepers, bright-colored hummers, and many dragon-flies. The latter
possessed a special interest for Lloyd, who immediately erected
breeding-cages and began to study their life history. The larva of the
dragon-fly resembles a good-size black beetle and lives in water. It is
the possessor of a voracious appetite, feeding upon aquatic insects,
the larvæ of mosquitoes, and even upon members of its own kind. Finally
it rises to the top, hatches, and continues the cycle of its existence
as an aerialist, the terror of the winged insects upon which it preys.
Penelopes, small turkey-like birds, were abundant, and proved to be
excellent eating. One day we succeeded in taking two specimens of a
rare, beautiful tanager (_Serricossypha albocristata_) that lived in
small flocks in the tall tree-tops. It was as large as a robin, of
a velvety blue-black color, with a white crown and breast of deep
scarlet. With such a display of lovely colors one might expect harmony
in song; but apparently the vocal ability of the gorgeous creature was
limited to a few shrill “peeps” like those of a strayed pullet. Deer
also were abundant, and one day we caught a fine cat of the ocelot
family.
We pitched camp in the heart of the forest. The vegetation was really
wonderful. In spots the lower growth consisted entirely of climbing
bamboo, so dense as to be impenetrable; the moss carpeting the ground
was often knee-deep, and the trees seemed to be breaking under the
weight of the creepers, orchids, mosses, and lilies that burdened every
trunk and branch. It rained a good deal, and when the downpour stopped
there was always the drip, drip of water that had been absorbed by the
spongy masses overhead.
[Illustration: Threshing wheat.]
[Illustration: Indian hut in the Valle de las Papas.]