Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
You may go with me, in your mind, to Venice, a city in Italy, where we
found ourselves very early one winter morning. Day had not yet dawned,
and darkness reigned supreme. Lamps were burning inside of the depot,
giving just light enough for passengers to see every object plainly.
At the foot of a flight of steps not far away stood two men, and as we
were in search of a hotel porter we immediately walked toward them. Upon
their cap-band, in large letters, was the name of the hotel we desired
going to, and without speaking one word our traveling bags were taken
and placed in a small boat, and we followed after, taking a seat near by
them. We were strangers, ignorant of the language, cold and tired.
The boatmen dipped their oars with a splash, and in the mean time talked
loudly to each other. The townspeople, no doubt, were in bed asleep, for
not a sound but that of our boatmen was heard, and no lights were seen,
excepting the lights which marked the corners. The distance seemed
great, for we paddled up one canal and down another, until we knew not
where the starting point was, and had no idea where the men were taking
us.
Venice was the strangest city we had ever visited. Front doorsteps
extended out into the water, and boatmen pulled up alongside of them
with their little gondolas. A large door showed us the entrance to the
hotel; but it was closed, and with a great deal of energy our fist came
down against it. After patiently waiting, admittance was gained, for a
winking, blinking-eyed servant, with hair standing straight up over his
head, had heard the noise and appeared to find out the cause. In one
hand he held a candle, and with the other kept tight hold of the door.
At first thought an entrance seemed out of the question; but after his
eyes were opened more widely he saw better and knew we were guests of the
hotel; so forthwith the door opened and we passed into the hall, where a
man who was not dazed took charge of us and we were glad to be taken to
our room, where in a short time after we were warmly covered up in bed.
Our journey had been long and tiresome, and the next morning found us
still tired and not willing to rise early.
Venice was the meeting point for us, as a party of tourists, and from
there we were to go on to Jerusalem together. We were ahead of time, so
decided to go sightseeing by ourselves; and an enjoyable time was had
going from one point to another.