Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Venice is a very interesting city to visit, for there are many public
buildings, such as the arsenal, which contains a museum of interesting
objects, and Saint Mark’s church. It alone would keep one occupied many
days if he examined closely every object of interest in it; for it was
constructed of the spoils of many buildings in almost every country in
the far East. It has marble columns and panels dating back to the fourth
century. It has been said that “St. Mark’s body was brought to Venice
secretly, from Alexandria, and placed in a vault in the chapel.” We do
not know how much truth there is in the guide’s story; but, be that as
it may, the church is a wonderful structure, and its panels, columns and
mosaics are well worth examining.
Hundreds of pigeons have their nests in the cornice of St. Mark’s, and
no one dare drive them away. They ruin the beautiful molding, and one
cannot help but wish it were different. The pigeons are quite tame, for
they come down and sit upon the head, shoulders and hands of any one
who will feed them. Some one bequeathed a certain sum of money for the
feeding of the pigeons, and for years and years feed has been furnished
them from the interest money. I am very fond of pets; so it pleased me
greatly to see them come down by the hundreds for the food which was
thrown them.
The streets were usually crowded with a set of lazy looking people,
and we had a good chance to see them as we walked up one street and
down another. There were many little shops where cooked victuals were
on sale; in the windows could be seen crisp fried fish, and at the
doors were large iron kettles filled with steaming hot boiled potatoes.
Those articles were sold at reasonable prices, and I’m sure it was
a convenience for the class of people who were too lazy to cook for
themselves. The Italians are said to be a dirty set of people, and I am
made to believe there is a good deal of truth in that saying.
By the time our party was ready to leave Venice we felt quite well
acquainted with every street and canal, and to this day we look back with
pleasure to the time when we visited the city of one hundred and fifty
canals.
Our mind is now turned toward Athens, a city in Greece. Once again
passage on a steamer was taken, for it proved to be the only way by which
we were able to reach that place. There were seven of us now, and the
personal conductor besides; yet not any of us had ever met before.
Trieste is an Austrian seaport town, and from there we sailed. The sea
was as calm as a river, and sailing was delightful. Our first stopping
place was at the Island of Corfu, where the anchor was cast and four
hours spent in waiting for passengers. The whole company desired to go
ashore, and after making proper arrangements with the boatmen were taken
to land, where carriages were procured and a long drive in the country
taken.