Then the sale commences, the seller fixing his price, and the buyer
offering what he considers to be the value; sometimes they "meet each
other halfway," as it is called, one lowering and the other advancing.
The fish are generally sold in lots without being weighed, and it
requires good judgment on both sides to reach the right mark. Although
there are so many salesmen, and generally such ample choice, the prices
vary much, as fish brought from one part of the coast are often superior
to what come from another.
But the fun of the market commences with the hawkers, when they come to
see what has been left by the large retail dealers: then you may hear a
little of what is called "Billingsgate;" though, instead of the old
renowned blackguardism, it is generally most good-natured "chaff."
"Fresh do you call these?" says one, who finds the price too high for
him. "Look how they rolls up the whites of their eyes, as if they vanted
a little rain. I should say they hasn't had a blessed smell of water for
this week past."
"Think I've been robbing somebody?" says another. "Vy, bless you, all
the whole bilin' of my customers hasn't got so much amongst them as
would buy the lot--no, not if they sold their toothpicks!"
Billingsgate is more like a wholesale warehouse than a fish-market,
although you may purchase a single mackerel in it. The hundreds of carts
which are drawn up in Thames-street, proclaim how far and wide the
produce of river and ocean is dispersed. From the next street to the
most remote suburb are the loads of fish borne, to be washed and laid
out temptingly in the thousands of shops which abound in London and the
surrounding suburbs. Nor is the supply limited to this circle; the rapid
trains carry off tons of fish to the distant towns, where they arrive in
time enough for dinner; thus sending
[Illustration: BILLINGSGATE.]
into the country the turbot and salmon as fresh as we receive it in the
metropolis; for what are a hundred miles on the great railways?
Old Billingsgate is now pulled down; the muddy dock, where so many
fishing-smacks have been harboured is filled up; and, instead of the
old-fashioned market which illustrates this chapter, a pile is erected
more befitting the greatest city in the world, and more like the noble
edifice--the New Coal Exchange--that faces it.
Eels cannot be brought to Billingsgate in such perfection as they
formerly were. We have now before us a Parliamentary report, given in
above twenty years ago, complaining of the poisonous state of the
Thames. The following evidence of Mr. Butcher, a fish-salesman, and
agent for Dutch vessels, will be interesting at this moment, while the
Thames is made the great sewer of London:
"Eight Dutch vessels arrived at Gravesend with full cargoes of healthy
eels in July 1827, and the following is the state in which they reached
the London market: