The castle ruin bears so many traces of the destruction of successive
sieges and consequent restorations that as it now stands it makes an
architectural and archæological puzzle which we felt quite unable to
struggle with. In general plan it is not unlike other mediæval
strongholds, with yard and keep, watch-towers and gates, banquet-hall
and chapel, and with extensive outworks intended to protect the little
town of Dürrenstein, at once its weakness and its strength. Utterly
neglected by the owner, whoever he may be, the perfection of its masonry
and the wonderful quality of the mortar have alone prevented it from
becoming long since an ugly mass of worthless rubbish. Most of the later
constructions have, indeed, fallen down, or have served so long as
convenient quarries that they have almost disappeared. We did not find
without some difficulty the traces of the grand old stairway that led
from the lower enclosure on the town side up into the pile of buildings
at the top and the older part of the castle. Scrambling up a moraine of
small stones and mortar, an unsightly avalanche, where the noble flight
of steps once mounted the ledge, we came to an irregular open space, now
roofless, but with doorways almost perfect and well-preserved window
penetrations. From this passages lead into towers on the edge of the
precipice, and into a small vaulted chapel, where rows of Byzantine
saints cover the walls with dim visions of red and yellow, their halos
now but circlets of rough holes where jewels were once embedded in the
mortar, and their rigid countenances disfigured by the weathering of
centuries of storms and frosts that have fought nature’s battle on this
bleak and dizzy crag. The northern wall of the open space just alluded
to is a solid ledge of rock hewn square and true, and in this wall is an
opening like a doorway, but bearing no traces of hinges or of any other
contrivance to close it, which leads into a spacious room cut out of the
hard stone. If this was the place where Richard Cœur de Lion was
confined, not only could no minstrel song ever have reached his ears,
but no sound of the world outside the castle less startling than the
crash of thunder ever have broken the hateful quiet of this rock
dungeon. The summit of the ledge is reached by a narrow stairway,
casually twisting and turning as the inequalities of the surface
dictated to the builder, and bears traces of a much-worn passageway and
of huge floor-beams. This was once enclosed by walls of great height and
exceptional solidity. From the ordinary indications of construction it
is proper to assume that here was the original building, enlarged and
altered a good deal since the twelfth century, but still preserving much
of its old shape. Portions of huge towers and jagged edges of apartment
walls, where immense pieces were blown out and down into the chasm below
when the Swedes destroyed this stronghold in the Thirty Years’ War, now