Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We were somewhat amused at Sorrento
(where the horses are invariably put upon full speed), upon taking a
carriage by the hour to Massa, a few miles off, to see how the man
leisurely walked his horse the whole way. Nor, in this instance, did we
grudge it; because the scenery was so lovely that we had full time to
enjoy it, and the rapid whisking through it, which otherwise would have
taken place, would have given us but a passing glimpse.
In Italy the cab fares are exceedingly moderate. For instance, at
Genoa, Florence, and Rome, the drive per course is only 80 centessimi
(8d.). At Rome, for every person beyond two, 20 centimes (2d.)
additional is payable. The charge per hour is 1·50. At Naples, fares
are even more moderate. The course, according to Bædeker, is 60
centimes per hour, 1·40 the first hour and 50 centimes every half–hour
after; but we found the actual tariff was slightly more.
One requires to be careful, especially in Italy, about driving per hour
in a town, not to go unnecessarily beyond its bounds, as when this is
done the tariff is no longer binding, and the fare may be completely
at the mercy of the driver. Thus, at Florence, we had on one occasion
taken a carriage by the hour, and after driving about for some time,
went to Fiesole, which lies beyond the bounds. When we came to settle
with our driver, he charged us three or four francs additional on this
account. At Naples, where one may very easily exceed the bounds, I was
amused at the pertinacity of a driver in suggesting to go to places
just beyond the city; but as I had made myself acquainted with its
limits, and had no wish at that time to go to the places he named, I
declined. The way to adopt when designing to go beyond the bounds is,
as we arranged always at Rome, to make an express bargain that the
charge by time should cover wherever we went.
* * * * *