A few points it may be well to emphasize for the benefit of the
beginner. The fat of meat should be white and clean, the lean a clear
red, the joints of poultry must break easily and the skin look smooth
and healthful. When a fowl is yellow, bony, and hairy it is bound to be
old and tough. The gills of fish should be fresh and the eyes bright.
I cannot speak too strongly against the growing habit of marketing by
telephone. Not only is the housekeeper who follows this custom at the
mercy of her marketman, who can put off on her any cut which has been
rejected by the wiser housewives who have come in person to do their
trading; he is subjected to the pleasing temptation to cut off more
than she has ordered or charge her for a heavier piece than he sends
home.
The woman who goes to market gains other advantages beyond those of
seeing for herself the appearance and the size of the piece she orders
and has cut off while she stands by and superintends the process. She
also has offered to her chances for bargains she would never get if she
marketed by telephone. Often there will be a change in the market or in
the weather that will bring down the cost of articles which are usually
high-priced, and the woman who does her own marketing is the one to
benefit by this as well as by suggestions which introduce variety into
her bill of fare.
This same variety is to be studied by the sensible housekeeper, not
only on account of the gratification it gives her to set a pleasing
provision before her family, but also because of the genuine good that
is gained by avoiding a monotony which fails to encourage the appetite.
Moreover, saving is aided by this diversity, since cheap dishes can be
slipped into the commissary without awakening the suspicions of the
eaters that economy is being practised at their expense.
Among the rational details to be observed in buying meat is that of
insisting that all “trimmings” shall be sent home. When a roast of
beef or a breast of lamb or a shoulder of mutton or veal is boned and
rolled, the bones should never be left at the market for the butcher
to sell over again, but sent with the meat that they may be used as a
foundation for soup or gravy stock. The giblets and feet of poultry
should also be demanded. When chops are “Frenched” or a steak cut into
seemliness, none of the scraps should be considered unworthy of saving.
All have their place in the stock-pot or as stew-meat.
Too large a piece of meat should not be bought by the woman with a
small family. Meat merchants have a way of discouraging the purchase of
the smaller roasts on the plea that they dry out in cooking. If they do
it is because the work is not properly done. It is quite possible to
make a small roast toothsome and tender instead of dry and hard if the
housekeeper will cook it in the right way and with due care.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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