Such fatigue is not necessary if the rules I have laid down are
followed. If, for example, the cook can make an unapproachable tomato
or oyster bisque; if she can roast a leg of lamb so that it will melt
in the mouth, prepare candied sweet-potatoes to tempt an epicure, and
spinach with the knack of a French chef; if there is some special sweet
dish for which she has made herself famous, whether this be a prune
soufflé with whipped cream, or a frozen mousse or ice--then let the
hostess confine herself to these items for her company dinners until
her maid has acquired further accomplishments. What difference does
it make if precisely the same dinner was served to a knot of friends
last week? The guests are different this time, even if the dishes are
unchanged, and these are good enough to stand repetition though they
appear half a dozen times in succession!
In a neighborhood where dinner is usually served in the middle of the
day and the period for social festivity is in the evening, supper may
take the place of dinner and be no less attractive. When this is the
case, I would advise the hostess to adopt some specialty and stick to
it, with only a few variations.
For instance, I know one housekeeper who was transplanted from the
South to another section of the country, and who there became famous
for the meals she served from her mother’s cook-book. Fried chicken
with cream gravy, Southern sweet-potatoes, beaten biscuit, Sally
Lunn, waffles, fried oysters, batter-bread, syllabubs, were among the
dainties she offered her appreciative guests. Not that she had all
these at one time, but she rang the changes on them, to the delectation
of the company.
Another woman I know who was born and raised in New England made a
success much farther south than this by feasting her friends on such
delicacies as genuine baked beans, cooked in a bean-pot (she made the
fireless cooker take the place of the ancient brick oven), Boston brown
bread--she called it “rye ’n’ Injun”--fried pork with cream gravy,
even creamed codfish and boiled potatoes, made to taste as no one had
ever before dreamed such things could taste. Of course doughnuts and
coffee were included in her menus, and pumpkin-pies and other dishes
of that sort. It was amusing and, in a way, pathetic to see the joy of
the exiles from New England before whom were placed the viands they had
been used to in the long-ago.
The simplicity of the provision should not be made an excuse for
departing from the orthodox methods of service. A supper such as I have
described can be served with as much daintiness as a formal dinner, and
the courses should follow one another in as orderly a style.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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