Such is the Pul-i-Khaju. Her architect’s name is unknown, but she dates
from the time of Shah Abbas II, who reigned between the years 1641
and 1666. Even in photographs she is a bridge of enchantment where
from time to time all the tired geniuses of the world should go for a
romantic holiday; the pavilions certainly await the coming of worthy
guests, who would save them from the vulgar decoration which has
displaced the old paintings and enrichments. That vaulted arcade in the
basement, running transversely through all the piers, and crossing the
channels by huge stepping-stones (one of the earliest bridges copied
by primitive man from Nature’s object-lessons), has a great historic
interest, though in pictures and photographs it attracts very little
attention. Was it suggested by a Roman model, or was it rediscovered
by the originality of a great architect? I have searched long for an
answer to these questions, but in vain.
Perhaps Old London Bridge at her best, after the building of None-such
House, in 1576, may have been as entertaining to the eye as is the
magic of the Pul-i-Khaju, though inferior to this masterpiece as a
work of art. The earliest representation of Old London Bridge comes to
us from the fifteenth century, in a miniature that graces the poems
of Charles d’Orléans.[87] It shows five piers much broader than the
adjacent voids, also a line of picturesque timber houses jutting out
from the parapet, and a great chapel of apsidal form, with wrought
pinnacles and two tiers of decorated windows. This Gothic church,
dedicated to St. Thomas à Becket, rises from water-level to a height
exceeding that of the tallest house on the bridge.
In Howell’s “Londinopolis” (edition of 1657) it is said that during
King John’s reign, 1199-1216, a mayor of London, “being master workman
of the bridge, builded from the foundation the large chappel on the
bridge upon his own charges, which chappel was then endowed with two
priests and four clerks, beside chantries.” It was put on the east
side; there were two storeys, one with an entrance from the river, the
other with a porch on the roadway. So boat-farers had their own place
of worship on London Bridge, and they walked to their praying-stools
over a pavement of black and white marble. Both storeys were
brilliantly lighted; in the upper one there were eight windows.
The first architect of Old London Bridge, Peter Colechurch, “priest and
chaplain,” died in 1205, and was buried in the Chapel of St. Thomas,
just twenty-two years after Saint Bénézet was laid to rest in his
bridge chapel at Avignon. Between 1176 and 1183 Colechurch may have
had some correspondence with Bénézet, for both were heads of religious
bodies engaged at the same time on similar work. “Their letters to one
another would interest engineers,” remarks Professor Fleeming Jenkin,
as if engineers alone were attracted by Old London Bridge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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