Meanwhile Cadwallon had arrived, and through Brian entered into a
league with Penda, king of the Mercians, against Edwin. Both forces
marched into Northumbria, and a battle was fought at a place called
Heathfield, and Edwin was slain and his Northern Angles routed.
Then, for a while, Cadwallon reigned over all the British peoples in
Wales, Strathclyde, and Devon and Cornwall.
He was succeeded by his son Cadwaladr, whose mother was a sister of
Penda the Mercian. He was a good and peace-loving prince, not made of
the same stuff as his father, and although he gained some victories his
reign was marked by loss of ground on all sides.
He wore the crown for twelve years. In 664 a terrible plague broke out
which spread desolation over Britain and Ireland, and in the latter
swept away two-thirds of the inhabitants. Cadwaladr was one of the
victims, and was buried in the church that bears his name by Llyn
Coron. The church has an east window to the chancel of a flamboyant
character, with some old stained glass in it representing the
Crucifixion and saints.
The line to Holyhead passes a cluster of lakes of not much beauty--that
of Llyn Penllyn has a little island in it--then it crosses a causeway
into Holy Isle, and draws up at the terminus of Holyhead, under Pen
Caergybi, the highest elevation in Anglesey.
Ruskin says:--
“Just on the other side of the Mersey you have your Snowdon and your
Menai Straits, and that mighty granite rock beyond the moors of
Anglesey, splendid in its heathery crest, and foot planted in the deep
sea, once thought of as sacred--a divine promontory, looking westward,
the Holy Head or Headland, still not without awe when its red light
glares first through the gloom.”
The cliff scenery here is of the finest quality, and Holyhead well
merits a prolonged visit, what with the stimulating air rushing through
one’s lungs charged with sparkles, the look-out on the green sea
flecked with foam and skimmed by gulls as flakes of froth that have
been detached from the waves and become alive, the plunging water on
the beach, the purple folds of the hills, and the abrupt cliffs, their
feet ever bitten into and worried by the angry waves.
The town is as busy as Beaumaris is inert. It lives on the Irish trade,
whereas Beaumaris picks up subsistence during a few short months only
from bathers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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