Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The path, or track rather, changes direction at every moment, wriggling
in and out among the rocks, over fallen masses, down descents where the
brambles throw long streamers across one's path to arrest progress;
the thorns claw and rend ladies' dresses. But the turf is purple with
violets, and the fantastic shapes of the rocks draw one forward in
defiance of thorn and prickle.
Some rocks resemble monstrous beasts. Near the road are the Lion and
the Bear, engaged in a wrestle. There are castles with windows and
doors, pointed arches, a very orgy of natural architecture in which
every style is represented. We pass through narrow rifts into which the
sun never penetrates, arrive by long galleries at culs-de-sac, and are
forced to retrace our steps. Everywhere cavities, grottoes, piercing
the rock that glares white in the sun and almost blinds the eye. We
arrive in a great cirque, in the midst of which are mulberries. In and
out, everywhere grow oaks and broom; suddenly we come forth upon the
gaping chasm through which rolls the Chassezac. A narrow and dangerous
path down a rift enables one to descend to the river.
[Illustration: PAÏOLIVE: THE LION AND THE BEAR]
By scrambling among fallen blocks, after having passed under a little
natural arch, a tunnel is reached in which a score of persons might
shelter from the rain. Then a path emerging into the light leads along
a terrace above the abyss, and by climbing and sliding and clinging to
the bushes La Gleyzasse (the Church) is reached, a rift and cavern,
once inhabited, as has been proved by the discovery under the soil of
flint weapons and fragments of pottery.
This is the best known of the caverns of Païolive. But the mysterious
wood grows above a whole subterranean world of vaults and passages.
The entrances to these grottoes are known only to the guide; they are
hidden among bushes, and often they are pot-holes, wells that open
without warning, and down which an incautious visitor might fall.
Stones thrown in strike the sides with a sound that becomes ever
feebler till they reach the unexplored bottom.
M. de Malbos describes some of these:—
"I visited as well a grotto forming a gallery, on a very rapid
slope. I would not speak of it but that, entering it without a
candle, I found that my right foot did not touch the ground; so I
retraced my steps to light a candle, and thus illumined I saw with
horror that I had had half my body suspended over a precipice,
sustaining myself only by my left foot on a slide of loose stones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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