Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The ascent of the river by train is indeed one of the great curiosities
of the country, and it will be done generally in this way till the
authorities of the department undertake to drive a carriage-road up
the gorge. It is true that the villages are few, the population small,
and trade a negligible quantity at present. But the scenery and the
coolness of the mountain air, and the abundance of crystal water,
are drawing annually more and ever more from the sweltering plains
of Languedoc and the burning zone of Provence to this region for the
summer, and it is accordingly to be regretted that they are debarred by
lack of roadway from exploring what is the most magnificent feature of
the country.
I have described the cañon of the Ardèche; this of the Allier is also
a cañon, but they are as unlike as is a blonde beauty to one who is
dark. They are both superb, but in manner totally different. The Allier
runs through rough basalt and crystalline rocks; the Ardèche flows
between bluffs of limestone. The latter can be descended in a boat, the
Allier cannot. The Allier looks north—the colouring, the vegetation,
the climate are northern; the Ardèche in every one of these particulars
is southern. The Ardèche has cut its way through a level plateau; the
Allier flows between ranges of mountains. The cañon of the Ardèche is a
street; the defile of the Allier is a lane. We cannot seek the Ardèche
in the height of summer; it is just then when we would refresh in the
cool draughts and the blue shadows of the Allier.
The chasm of this latter river has been formed at the point of contact
of the lava with the granite. The volcanoes of Le Velay poured forth
their molten floods which beat against the granitic mass of the
Margeride, and the lava in cooling may have shrunk and cracked and so
allowed the river an opportunity of escaping into the plain. In places
it has cut through granite and schist. It had cut this channel before
the volcanic vents opened. What these latter did was to deposit what
they threw out in the trough of the Allier, and force that stream to
renew its work of excavation; in the latter part of its course the
ravine is cut through lava.
Langeac will serve as a starting-point for visits if the tourist be
not very particular as to accommodation. It does possess one passable
inn, and that is at some distance from the station in the town. The
place itself is of no great interest. It has manufactures, favoured
by the presence of coal-beds near at hand. The church, however, is
curious. It consists of a nave without aisles, but with chapels between
the buttresses, and with an apse, lined within with well-carved oak
stalls of the sixteenth century; once occupied at Mass by canons, now
by schoolboys. The tower is at the east end, and supports an octagonal
campanile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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