Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
From Langeac Chanteuges is easily reached. It clusters about a basaltic
hunch at the junction of the Dège with the Allier. The village creeps
up the side of the hill, the summit of which is occupied by a church
and the ruins of a priory. The original church was a fine example of
Romanesque, but is now a sad jumble of styles; every age as it passed
has left a trace on the building. The platform on which it stands is
ascended by a zigzag path; basaltic prisms, range above range, form the
mass of the rock.
The main entrance to the old priory is on the north, and was defended
by a tower. On one of the blocks at the top of the wall may be read the
date 1115. The monks had evidently converted their habitation into a
fortress, and it was precisely this that led to their suppression and
the dispersion of the fraternity.
One Iter de Maudulf, a knight who had led a lawless life, felt a twinge
of compunction, and resolved on quitting the world and embracing a life
of religion. Accordingly he assumed the cowl in Chanteuges. But the
old Adam was not dead in him. _Cucullus non facit monachum._ The choir
offices proved tedious, the meagre fare unacceptable, and the wine
was vinegar. His temper gave way, and with it his good resolutions.
He became restive. In the refectory he talked to the other monks of
the good old days when he roistered and roved over the country; ate
and drank and did wild deeds of devilry. They listened; their mouths
watered, and their fingers itched. Eventually Maudulf succeeded in
corrupting the whole fraternity. The monks abandoned their reading and
psalmody to fortify the height. Every night a diabolical horde issued
from the gate of the monastery, clothed in mail armour under their
serge habits. They swept the country, levied blackmail on the farmers,
stopped and robbed merchants, and plundered the pilgrims bound for the
shrine of Our Lady of Le Puy. In the dead of night they forced their
way into convents, and romped and revelled with the nuns, or else
carried off comely peasants' daughters _en croupe_ to their stronghold
at Chanteuges.
Of all the confraternity, the abbot alone kept his head; but his
objurgations were disregarded, his authority was flouted. In despair he
appealed to the Bishop of Clermont, who at once visited the monastery,
but took the precaution of doing so at the head of a body of armed
men. "I saw," said he, "the abbey in the most deplorable condition.
The buildings were in ruins, the sanctuary was despoiled, the church
converted into a fortress, no one serving God, the holy habitation
transformed into a den of thieves and murderers."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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