Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
Accordingly the monastery was suppressed, the monks dispersed among
other houses, and the abbey converted into a priory under the rule and
supervision of Chaisedieu. To the present day the belief prevails among
the peasantry that in winter, at night, when a storm rages and the snow
is driving, a black cavalcade issues from the gate, with cowls drawn
over grinning skulls, and with serge habits flapping in the wind, that
it sweeps over the plateau till cock-crow, when it returns through the
portal and vanishes.
East of the church is a little chapel of flamboyant character with
richly sculptured doorway, surmounted by a representation of the
Assumption. It is the sole specimen of this style in the department. At
the Revolution it was converted into a haystore.
The fête at Chanteuges is on Whitsun Day, and has a peculiar
observance. It begins in the Pré du Fou. This field may not be mown
till after Pentecost. A beggar is induced to hide in the long grass.
The youths of the parish, wearing hats decked with cock's feathers,
march to the field in two files led by fifes and drums and preceded by
a banner. The procession circles thrice about the field, and some of
the young men detach themselves from it and beat it in search of the
beggar. If they do not find him at once, others come to their aid. When
the _fou_ has been discovered, he is grasped by the legs, thrown on his
back, and spun round once by each of the youths forming the procession.
Then a pistol is discharged, the procession reforms, and the train
mounts to the church, taking the poor fool along with it. There he is
again thrown down and undergoes the same process of spinning. After
this he is indemnified by a few coppers from each of the spinners,
and every seller of cakes and buns who has a stall there is bound to
supply him with sufficient food to satisfy his maw. The spinning over,
the young men enter the church for Mass. At Chanteuges the festival
of Pentecost is devoted partly to God, partly to dancing, partly to
drinking. God is often forgotten, dancing sometimes, the bottle never.
Opposite Chanteuges is S. Arcons, where the Fioule flows into the
Allier. It rises among the pine-clad heights of Fix S. Genys, and
receives the stream that issues from the Lake of Limagne, a volcanic
basin like that of Bourget, but not of like regularity of outline.
Above Langeac is the land of the Lafayettes. They were great seigneurs
in the Middle Ages. They derive from Gilbert Motier, lord of Lafayette,
who was one of the great captains that drove the English out of France.
He died in 1463, and was grandson of a Gilbert who fell on the field of
Poitiers, 1356, also with his face set against the English. So Marie
Jean Paul, the famous marquess, fought the English on the side of the
Americans, 1777-1785. The Marquess was born at Chavagnac, 1757, on the
tableland about the junction of lines at S. Georges d'Aurac. The castle
was built in 1701.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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