Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
After crossing the Col de la Pierre-Plantée, the road winds down into
the valley of the Dourbie, which wriggles along at a great depth below
between rocks of quartz and schist, then passes among chestnut trees,
and reaches S. Jean-du-Bruel, when we are in the valley of the Dourbie.
Here comes in the road from Saudières, where is a station on the line
from Le Vigan to the junction on the main line opposite Roquefort; and
the lower valley of the Dourbie can be visited from Le Vigan by taking
the train to Saudières and a carriage thence to Milau.
Nant, a little town on the left bank of the Dourbie, has a Celtic
name, very descriptive, for Nant signifies a valley or a river bottom.
Nantes in Brittany has the same derivation, as has also Devon in Welsh,
Dyffneint, the county of valleys. So also the Dourbie and the Durzon
proclaim that they were named by Celts, for _dour_ signifies water in
Welsh.
The church of S. Pierre of the twelfth century is all that remains of a
Benedictine abbey; the Romanesque chapel of S. Alban stands on a barren
rock 2,400 feet high. But the great attraction is the source of the
Durzon, as Reclus describes it:—
"A little river issuing from a deep _foux_ some six or seven
kilometres from Nant, near the Mas-de-Pommier, at the bottom of
a cirque where walls, which are those of the Larzac, rise above
the well to the height of 900 feet. There opens a great gulf,
_un dormant qui ne dort pas toujours_. A slight rain on Larzac
agitates it, and it begins to boil languidly in the centre of
the well; but after a long rain, a storm, or the melting of the
snows, the water rises in clashing floods like a cascade turned
upside down; it is no longer a murmuring stream, but a growling
torrent whose voice breaks the austere silence of the cirque."
Still descending the valley, we see perched high up on the right the
curious village of Cantobre, on a point of the Causse Bégon, shaded
by gigantic dolomitic mushrooms, and comprised within the walls of a
ruined castle that was destroyed in 1660, after its owner, Jean de
Fombesse, had been executed as a coiner.
But more curious even than Cantobre is the village of S. Veran,
plastered against the rocks which shoot up into needles. The ravine
opening behind it describes a circus bristling with pinnacles and rocks
scooped out and shaped into the most fantastic forms. The whole is
commanded by an immense wall of limestone on which, and intermingled
with which, are the artificial structures of a castle, the cradle of
the family of Montcalm, whose most illustrious member was the Marquess
who fell on the heights of Abraham, 14th September, 1759, in the
struggle over Quebec, that cost also the life of Wolfe. The inhabitants
of this poor hamlet, in a barren and waste land, are themselves
wretchedly poor. Some one said to one of them: "So, the Montcalms left
this place!" "Aye! and would to God we could leave it too," was the
reply.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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