Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
Bédarieux is, or rather was, a busy manufacturing town, with forges
and glass works, indebted for its coal to the neighbouring mines of
Grassensac. But a few years ago a strike took place. The ironmasters
and glassmasters could not meet the demands of the men, and forges and
factories have since been closed, and the population has dwindled to
nearly half what it was. This also has seriously affected the miners of
Grassensac.
Bédarieux is on the Orb at the confluence into it of the Courbezon.
The station is three-quarters of a mile from the town. There is nothing
of interest in the place itself, except the church of S. Alexandre
of the fifteenth century, and that not remarkable. For a centre of
excursions it is good, but preferable is Lamalou-les-Bains, where are
excellent hotels; but Bédarieux must be tarried at for a few nights
if Rochefort, Lunas, and Boussagues are to be visited, or much time
will be lost in the trains. Bédarieux is the station of bifurcation of
three lines from the main trunk from Clermont to Béziers, and any one
who has had experience of French lines will know that as often as not
this implies a tedious halt, perhaps of an hour, at the station where a
change has to be made.
The nature of the mountains through and by which flows the Orb differs
greatly from that of the schisty Cévennes—the Cévennes proper—and the
limestone of the causses and of the garigues. They are a ripple rather
than a billow, and being sheltered from the north winds by the high
range at their back form a sort of natural hothouse, in which the
sweetest fruits of a southern clime ripen readily, where the spring
comes earliest and the autumn sun lingers longest.
In the Languedoc plain, in Roussillon, even to Perpignan, the icy
blasts from the Cévennes are dreaded. The olives, the planes, the
mulberries are bent, leaning towards the south, permanently given this
incline under the influence of these cruel winds. They scourge Béziers
and Montpellier as with a cat-o'-nine-tails dipped in water that has
been frozen. But these winds pass over Bédarieux and the valley of the
Orb to expend their violence elsewhere. Here in the upper reaches of
the Orb the vine, the fig, the olive, the pomegranate, the almond, the
nettle-tree luxuriate, untortured, unnipped.
Villages are many, clustering as so many sets of beehives in every warm
and sheltered nook that faces the sun, and has a mountain wall at its
back.
And it is precisely here, where least wanted, that a prodigal nature
lavishes heating material in beds of anthracite and other coal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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