Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
A favourite walk is to N. D. de Capimont, which occupies from two
hours to two and a half. This is a little chapel on the height above
the village, with a hermitage attached. There is no hermit there now.
The last died five years ago. He was found dead in his cell, some days
apparently after that he had expired. He was the last, and there are
not likely to be any successors to an Order that was by no means an
element of good in the country. Ferdinand Fabre has given a graphic
account of the hermits in _Barnabé_, and also in _Mon Oncle Célestin_.
"I am in despair," says he. "Letters from the South inform me that
one by one the hermitages are being closed; that the hermits,
knapsack on back, are quitting their solitary chapels, and that
they do not return. Did the order for their suppression issue from
the Prefecture or from the Episcopal Palace? It is supposed from
both simultaneously. What a pity! O how the picturesqueness of our
South will be the poorer thereby."
The hermits, calling themselves Free Brothers of S. Francis, were a
begging fraternity; they rambled about the country selling sacred
pictures, rosaries, and other religious trifles; they frequented the
fairs and the taverns, and neither ate nor drank in moderation, and
their morals were not irreproachable. But they served a purpose. They
attended to the solitary chapels, and made ample provision for the
pilgrims who visited these shrines.
"Mon Dieu!" says Fabre; "I know well enough that the Free Brothers
of S. Francis, as they loved to entitle themselves, had allowed
themselves a good deal of freedom, more than was decorous. For
instance, it was not particularly edifying at Bédarieux on a
market-day to see the hermits from the mountains round about leave
the tavern of the Golden Grapes staggering, jolting against one
another, shouting, and at nightfall describing ridiculous zigzags
as they went on their way straying along the roads leading to
their solitary dwellings.
"But as these monastically habited gentry in no way scandalised
the population of the South, who never confounded the occupants
of the hermitages with the curés of the parishes, why sweep away
these fantastic figures, who, without any religious character,
recruited from the farms, never educated in seminaries, peasants
at bottom, in no way priests, capable, when required, to give a
helping hand with the pruning-knife in the vineyard or with the
pole among the olives, or the sickle among the corn. Alas! they
had their weaknesses, and these weaknesses worked their ruin."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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