Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
At the French Revolution the Free Brothers of S. Francis did not creep
into their shells and hide their heads there—they knew better than
that. Though not even in minor orders, they did something smack of the
clerical, and might be sent _à la lanterne_. So they doffed the brown
habit and donned the blouse, went to farmers and served them till the
tyranny was over-passed. In 1806 the curés of the parishes were glad
to find any pious laymen who would keep the chapels clean and serve at
Mass on the days when pilgrims streamed to them. The men thus installed
assumed a Franciscan snuff-coloured habit, and called themselves,
without other justification, Brethren of S. Francis.
When he was a child, Fabre says, there were six hermitages in the upper
valley of the Orb. Now most of the chapels are falling to decay, as
there is no one authorised to look after them. But N. D. de Capimont
is still in considerable repute, and is frequented by crowds on the
Feast of the Assumption. A curious old town, situated high, may be
visited from either Lamalou or Bédarieux. This is Villemagne, with a
ruined abbey and mint. The abbey was founded by Charlemagne in 780.
The church of the parish is dedicated to S. Majan, and is a vast
building; the choir alone was erected in the fourteenth century. It
contains a curious altar of the sixth century, now used as a bénitier.
The old church of S. Gregory, of the thirteenth century, long used as a
granary, has been restored. The old town is full of ancient buildings,
in narrow streets, and is very curious.
But the finest excursion of all is that to the gorge of Héric. For this
it is advisable to take the train to Colombières and walk thence, or
drive from Lamalou. The station of Trivalle is close to the entrance
of the gorge, but from that side it can rarely be ascended, as the
path built up against the precipice is often broken down and not
repaired. But from the other side the ascent is easily made. The view
up the ravine to the needle rocks of granite above is hardly to be
surpassed for beauty of colour and form. The sides are precipitous
for 900 feet. By the path one can reach the village of Héric, lost
at the extremity of this tremendous ravine, and by this is its only
means of communication with the outer world; and so dangerous is the
path that there is a saying in the country that no inhabitant of
Héric dies in his bed. What I have said before I repeat here. None of
the gorges in the Cévennes resemble one another; they have not even
a family likeness, for the Caroux from which the stream descends,
and into the bowels of which this gorge is cleft, is of granite; and
what resemblance can there be between granite and basalt or dolomitic
limestone? When I visited the ravine, snow powdered the silvery-grey
needles at the head and lay in the laps. So seen, the picture of that
ravine is indelibly impressed on my memory as one of surpassing savage
beauty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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