Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
S. Gervais is a picturesque little town situated at the junction of
the Casselouvres and the Mare, that takes its rise in the Signal de
l'Espinouse, 3,380 feet. Its church has the peculiarity of the spire
being a grove of trees and a bed of wallflowers that have rooted
themselves in the stonework and been allowed to grow there unmolested.
The town, notwithstanding that it preserves many relics of the Middle
Ages and a general aspect that is venerable, is but modern compared
with the older town, now abandoned, that was built on a jagged rock,
its ruins mingling with the rock and scarce distinguishable from it.
The more modern town is planted on a hillock standing by itself; the
streets are narrow, scrambling up the side of the hill, and the houses
are dingy, dirty, and dilapidated. The still more modern town lies
below the hill. There is an intermittent spring in the side of the
Hôtel Soulié. At Saint Gervais at fair time may be noted the contrast
that exists between the inhabitant of the sun-baked, semi-tropical
lower land, rich in oil, honey, and wine, and the mountaineer who
descends there to sell his cattle. Those who live in the sheltered
valleys are clothed in stout broadcloth and serge, or bottle-green
velvet. They arrive at a fair or market, noisy, sprightly, their mules
laden with corn and fruit. On the other hand, the inhabitant of the
heights of the Espinouse or Larzac is grave, reserved, uncommunicative,
clothed in a garment of coarse cloth called _grisaoud_, followed by
interminable flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen.
At Bédarieux—
"They trade, they chaffer over almonds, olives, honey, cocoons,
wheat, the produce of a sunny nature; at Saint Gervais is a cattle
market, and is of a graver character, for though a man can
dispose lightly of the fruits of the earth that he has tilled,
of the tree he has planted, it is not without a pang that the
shepherd can separate himself from the beast he has nourished.
Between the pastor and his flock do there not exist, moreover,
mutual sentiments of affection, even of love, that defy all
psychology?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account