Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
At the distance of an hour and a half from Lodève is the well-preserved
monastery of S. Michel-de-Grammont, now converted into farm buildings.
It has a Romanesque cloister and a pointed chapter-house. The tower
bears an octagonal campanile, rising out of a square base, the four
windows of which are flamboyant.
The octagon is surmounted by a dome. The church is of great simplicity,
and consists of a nave, vaulted, with a circular apse. On the north
side is a pretty portal of three orders, resting on pillars with
foliaged capitals.
Near the church is a little chapel, on the front of which is inlaid an
inscription in characters of the twelfth century, stating that it was
consecrated on the 11th of the Calends of June in honour of S. Michael,
but without date of the year.
[Illustration: DOLMEN OF GRANDMONT]
At no considerable distance is a remarkably well-preserved dolmen. The
end stone is pierced with a triangular opening, through which food was
thrust for the dead who lay within. From Lodève the great upland causse
can be reached by the road that leads to Le Caylar, through the valley
of the Lergue and by the passage of l'Escalette. This was formerly a
scramble up a stair of rocks, but now a good road has been driven up
the heights to the vast plateau of Larzac, which has been seen as the
train passes over it from Le Vigan to Tournemire.
There are caves to be explored near Lodève by such as enjoy such
underground excursions; and these with marvellous stalagmitic and
stalactitic formations. Such are the Mas de Bouquet, in the commune of
Soubès. Another is the Grotte de Labeil, opening out of a cirque of
rocks above the source of the Baume-Bauède, that once found its issue
thence, but has now burrowed its way to a lower level.
Larzac (_Larga saxa_) is the most extensive and the most barren of all
the limestone causses—a Siberian tundra in winter, an Arabia Petræa in
summer.
It seems to be transpierced by the Cévennes, that penetrate it at the
Col de Sanctières, and issue from its huge bulk again at Mont Paon, a
distance of fifteen miles. But from its abrupt precipices above Milau
to the bold frontage of glaring white at L'Escalette is a distance of
twenty-four miles. Elisée Reclus says of it:—
"The plateau of Larzac is a veritable table of stone. Water lacks
on its surface. The soil, pierced by fissures, is hardly moistened
by torrential rains. The drops falling on it pass through it as
through a sieve and disappear. At certain spots the rifts in the
rock are large, their walls have fallen in, and one sees huge
funnels, avens, open in the calcareous surface, and descend to
frightful depths. But almost everywhere the surface of the causse
is uniform, and the subterranean wells are only indicated by
superficial zigzags. Nowhere does a single spring rise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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