Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The cathedral is of the fourteenth century. The nave of three bays has
side aisles and chapels on the south side, one of which, dedicated
to S. Michael, is recessed behind richly moulded arches. The choir
consists of two bays, with a nine-sided apse with lofty narrow
two-light windows in each side. A curious arrangement is the walling
up on each side of the choir so as to transform the continuation of
the aisles into lengthy independent chapels. On the north side is the
richly adorned chapel of S. Fulcran. The west front has no doorway in
it, but a beautiful rose window between machicolated turrets. To see it
one must enter the gendarmerie which occupies this end of the building.
Poor fragmentary cloisters remain on the south.
Ferdinand Fabre thus describes the interior of the cathedral:—
"It has a nave and side aisles. The choir is large, lengthy, and
occupies almost half the church, which gives an impression of
surprise, and awakes in one the unpleasant idea that there is a
want of proportion in the general disposition of the monument. But
when this vexatious impression has passed away, one admires the
nine windows of the apse, of original design, enormously lofty,
certainly not in the purest style. The Gothic of the South always
retained something incomplete, coarse, disagreeable, and never
attained to the marvellous proportion, to the supreme elegance,
to the aerial grace of the North. Nevertheless, with all its
faults, the clumsiness of hand of an unskilled artist, who opened
these windows to let in the light of heaven;—these immense bays,
enriched with little pillars having carved capitals, divided into
two by a single mullion that rises unsustained to the point where
the tracery begins, and receive the ribs of the vaulting, lay hold
of and retain one's eyes. The vaults, distributed in five bays,
are designed not without dignity. The whole edifice, in spite of
gross and many architectural faults—faults of construction, faults
of arrangement—breathes a certain robust grace, a barbaric charm,
making it the most interesting and most grateful of sanctuaries in
our land."
A pretty, late flamboyant, melting into early Renaissance, chapel is
between the cathedral and the cloister.
The old episcopal palace has been converted into municipal buildings,
and the gardens into a fine promenade; so that the long conflict that
endured for centuries has ended in the complete victory of the people.
The bishopric was suppressed at the Concordat.
Between Clermont and Lodève the line runs through a red sandstone
district, curiously bare and water-torn. The red stone seems to melt
like butter under the rain, and with the least rush of water it swims
away in masses, and grass can scarcely grow on the denuded surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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