Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The most interesting excursion among the Boutières is up the valley of
the Erieux, that takes its rise above S. Agrève. It is a capricious
river, at one time a small stream, at another a boiling torrent. In the
great flood of 1876 it rose forty feet, and rolled down three times the
amount of water that does the Seine at Paris. It brings with it from
the granite particles of gold, but not in sufficient amount to make it
worth while searching for the precious metal.
The line up the valley is a masterpiece of engineering; in places it
is carried in cornice along the face of the gorge, now cut out of the
rock, and now on a terrace built up on arches. The river enters the
Rhône a couple of miles above La Voute, but the junction of the line
to Le Cheylard is at this place. La Voute sur Rhône is an ancient
town planted at the foot of and scrambling up a rock crowned with the
ruins of a castle of the great family of Ventadour. The old town, with
its tortuous streets, its venerable but crumbling houses, its steep,
ladder-like ascent, is almost deserted, life has run down and settled
in modern houses at the foot. But even the new town is death-struck.
The iron mines which made the place prosperous, and in 1870 yielded
60,000 tons of ore, produced but 12,683 tons in 1891, and in the
following year only 520; and now, none. Ruin has fallen on La Voute,
and it is doubtful if it will ever recover. In the old castle of the
Ventadours was set up the bureau of the company that worked the mines.
Now the offices are ruinous and deserted, like the halls and towers of
the feudal princes.
The fortress was begun in 1319, and enlarged and made splendid in 1582.
Ichabod! Its glory is departed. The beautiful Renaissance chapel with
its marbles and sculpture is crumbling away. The chapel is vaulted
with delicate ribs, and against the walls are carved a Resurrection
and statues of the Duke and Duchess of Ventadour. But all, sculptured
capitals of pilasters, dainty cornices, figures, have suffered under
the hammers of the Revolutionary fanatics.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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