Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
In the valley of Erieux, where it opens out, vineyards have been staged
up the mountain sides, in narrow walled terraces, with infinite
labour, and where there are not vines there are chestnuts and cherry
trees. At S. Fortunat, the Dunière enters the Erieux, and hence a road
leads to Vernoux, the Geneva of the Protestants of Upper Ardèche. It
is mainly occupied by descendants of the Huguenots, but there are
Catholics as well, living in a separate quarter. The Protestants are
much divided among themselves. One sect is that of the Momiens, whose
head-quarters are S. Agrève and Vernoux. They represent the original
Huguenots far more truly than those who call themselves Evangelicals,
for these latter have lapsed into Freethought, Indifference,
Agnosticism, and the best are Deists. The Momiens do not attend the
"Temples Protestants," but hold their assemblies in the open air, in
fact have camp meetings. Every one brings his provisions with him; they
have exercises of prayer, psalm-singing, and exhortation, and then all
dine peaceably under the chestnut trees. They come into town only on
Sundays and market-days, and do not frequent the public-houses. They
have the character of being scrupulously honest.
Many of the Evangelicals never attend public worship. Out of eleven
thousand inhabitants of Vernoux, about eight thousand are Protestants;
they are able, accordingly, to engross all the offices and determine
the elections. Conversions one way or the other are most rare, perhaps
four or five in thirty years, and these only on account of marriages.
The Protestant young men are desirous of getting Catholic wives, as the
girls of this latter confession have a better moral character—being
more carefully looked after by the clergy and sisters than are the
others; but the curés in every way oppose mixed marriages, which
is a mistake, for no more effective missionary can be found than a
God-fearing, consistent wife.
Unhappily party feeling runs strong. An old curé of Vernoux named
Chifflet, with the help of a M. Demars, who was a large contributor,
founded a hospital, and when it was complete handed it over to the
town for general use without regard to denomination. At once the town
council elected a governing board, from which it excluded the principal
donor, M. Demars, because he was a Catholic, and struck off the name
of M. Lanthois, the only Protestant in the place who had given a sou
towards the hospital.
So when the Calvinist temple wanted rebuilding a rate was imposed on
all the citizens, and the Catholics had to contribute as well as the
Evangelicals. But when the Catholics desired to erect a church for
themselves a rate was refused. If the proportions had been the other
way on, without a doubt the Catholics would have acted with precisely
the same intolerance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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