Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The Monts de Lacaune, almost wholly sterile, link the Cévennes of
Hérault to those of Aveyron. The highest crest is the Pic de Montalet,
3,810 feet. They are composed of mica-schists, granite, and porphyry,
and stretch in barren plateaux, or monotonous rolling ground, frozen
for a great part of the year. The Montagne Noire, on the other hand, is
well wooded. From its wretched hamlets come the men who help to gather
in the vintage in the more fertile plains.
"These mountaineers arrive," says Mme. L. Figuier, "to earn in
one month enough to support them and their families all the rest
of the year in their contracted valleys, rich in vegetation but
very poor in products. The Languedoc peasants treat them harshly.
The unfortunate mountaineers, who ought to inspire compassion,
are often enough badly treated, and serve as butts for chaff to
the grape gatherers of the country to which they have come as
assistants. The farmer who has hired a band of these _montagnards_
gives them a granary and some hay in and on which to rest after
the fatigues of the day. Here they are huddled together, men,
women, and children, living on the grapes and on a coarse soup
which they cook in common in the evening, and eat together out of
one porringer. But these veritable pariahs are linked together
by strong ties of affection. They rise, walk, work, eat, sleep
together always in herds. In the evening, on returning from the
vineyards, they dance their national _bourées_, not so much for
enjoyment, as to bring back to their minds their native country,
and sometimes great tears may be seen rolling down the cheeks of
the young girls, who think of the happy times when they danced so
merrily on the earthen floors of their cottages. The most fertile
plains, the most brilliant cities, cannot compensate, to these
poor people, for the century-old nut trees and the chestnuts which
nourish them in their miserable hovels. Their hearts crave for the
freshness of their valleys, the fragrance of their meadows, their
snowy mountains, and the distaff over the fire of the winter's
evenings."[2]
I have not in this book included the Montagne Noire. I have not
described the range beyond the Espinouse westward, nor the mountains
about Annonais and Mont Pilat, as these portions of the Cévennes are
less interesting than that which intervenes, and, also, lest I should
unduly extend the book.
It is strange that the region of the Cévennes should have been
neglected by tourists to such an extent as it has; but it is explicable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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