The Cathedral of Grasse is of singularly uncouth Gothic, of the twelfth
century, with huge drums of pillars, and the crudest of vaulting
without any moulding being afforded to the ribs. Grasse possessed
formerly a very curious feature, shared with Vence, of having the choir
for bishop and chapter in the west gallery, over the porch. As this
was so exceptional, and as the early apse would not admit of seats
for the chapter, a late bishop built out a hideous structure behind
the high altar to accommodate himself and the clergy. But at Vence
the arrangement remains intact. That church of Vence is of very early
architecture, I am afraid of stating how early. It consists of a nave
with double aisles on each side, and the double aisles are carried
round at the west end. Each of the aisles on both sides of the nave is
stone-floored and vaulted underneath, forming a gallery. At the west
end, both aisles are so floored, and here, above the narthex or porch,
is the choir, with most beautifully carved stalls, bishop’s throne at
the extreme west end; and in the middle of this odd little upstairs
choir is the lectern with its vellum MS. book of antiphons left as
last used. The date of the stalls is 1455-1460, and the lectern is but
little later.
According to tradition the church was built in the sixth century,
on the site of a Pagan temple, and an image of an idol was buried
under the foundations of each of the pillars. What is certain is that
into two of the piers are inserted figures in alabaster from a Roman
monument, and that numerous votive tablets and inscriptions are walled
into the church. The beautiful woodwork of the western choir escaped
being blown to splinters by a happy accident in 1596.
On Sunday, the Feast of S. Michael, the bishop occupied his throne at
mass. When he stood up for the Gospel, his foot broke through the floor
of his stall. He drew his foot out, and after the conclusion of the
Creed proceeded to the pulpit to preach. Whilst he was away a choir boy
looked into the hole made by the bishop’s foot, thrust in an arm and
drew out his hand full of a black powder, which he showed to an officer
standing by, who at once recognised that this was gunpowder. A search
was made, and it was found that enough gunpowder had been rammed in
under the throne to blow bishop and chapter up, and wreck the church. A
fuse had been inserted through a hole bored in the woodwork, and it was
supposed that the purpose was to light this when the bishop returned
from the pulpit. A messenger was at once sent to him, but he refused to
desist from his sermon, calmly proceeding with it to the conclusion,
although the congregation, who had received wind of the attempt,
had begun to clear out of the church. He returned to his throne and
remained there to the end of the service. It was never ascertained by
whom the plot was arranged, whether by Huguenots, or whether it was due
to private malice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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