“This equilibrium of temperature is manifest in the simultaneous
development of vegetations apparently contradictory. At Cannes, above
every spot on the coast of Provence, the vegetations of opposite
climes melt into one another in an admirable promiscuity. The
landscape is veritably unique, and one feels there as if one were
transported into a vast conservatory, in which artificially are united
growths, the most different in character. The plain is covered with
oranges and lemons, from among which shoot up at intervals the fans
of palms trees and the spikes of aloes. The hills are crowned with
umbrella pines, whose majestic heads recall classic sites in the
Roman campagna. In the background of the picture are dark and dense
forests of pines, like a gloomy drapery above which rise the pure and
gleaming heights of the Alps in their eternal snows. Thus, as in a
single framework, one can see grouped together the great conifers of
the north, the olives of Provence, the golden fruits of the Balearic
Isles, the oleanders of Asia Minor, and the thorny vegetation of the
Algerian Tell.”
I must, however, in all fairness, add, as a qualification to this
picture, that in the early months of 1905, frost and hail did so smite
and blast the oranges, the lemons, the eucalyptus of the plain of the
Siagne, that the glory of the glossy leaves was gone, the country had
assumed the aspect of a withered orchard. The golden fruit were shed,
and the leaves were bleached and pendant.
If Cannes has gone up in the world, her neighbours have gone down.
About four miles from Cannes, in the Plain of the Siagne, is an outcrop
of the Estérel red sandstone, crowned by magnificent pines, cypresses,
cork trees and ilexes, that embower a chapel of S. Cassien and a farm.
Here, till recently, lived a hermit. These gentry are becoming scarce.
Possibly the prognostication of M. Anselme Benoît, in Jules Fabre’s
novel _Mon Oncle Celestin_, is accomplishing itself:
“Va au diable avec tes médailles et tes chapelets. Je te le prédis
depuis longtemps: à force d’embrasser les filles, tu finiras par
embrasser les gendarmes au detour de quelque chemin.”
In 1661 Bishop Godeau found a vagabond hermit at S. Jeanette, and tried
in vain to dislodge him; but the man hung on, and Godeau found him
still there in 1667.
These men pick up a subsistence by the sale of sacred medals, pictures,
scapulars, rosaries; sometimes manufacturing the latter themselves.
Very often they are simply lazy loons who can subsist on such sales and
occasional alms; but some have been as great scamps as Jacopo Rusca in
Fabre’s delightful story—which is a graphic picture of country life
and country people in the South, full of delicious word painting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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