The old city of Phœnicians and Phocœans occupied that portion of the
present town lying between the sea and the ancient port, and the walls
cut across from the Anse de la Joliette, mounted the Butte des Carmes
and descended to the head of the Vieux-port. The Butte des Moulins was
the Acropolis, and on it stood temples of the gods of Carthage and
Greece. The sea-face was formerly very different from what it is now.
Cæsar speaks of Marseilles being washed by the sea on three sides.
The sea has eaten away a very large portion of the peninsula. The
cathedral, La Major, was not formerly on the quay; till the end of the
eighteenth century its principal portal faced the sea. At the close
of that century, so much of the town having been washed away, and so
sapped was the rock on that side, that a doorway had to be opened on
the landside. An old chapel existing in 1202 stood at a point now 250
feet from the land. Recent works, the formation of a succession of
basins, have arrested this degradation of the coast, and have regained
some of the lost land.
Marseilles lies in an amphitheatre, but this is only realised when the
city is approached from the sea. To those arriving by rail it appears
to be a town scattered over a series of hills, very irregular and of
a very confused plan. All that portion of the town that lies south
of the Vieux-port, about the Palais de Justice to where the hill
rises, was formerly morass; the houses here have no cellars, and are
built, like Amsterdam, on piles. Above the Bassin de Carinage rises
the Church of S. Victor, built in the eleventh and extended in the
thirteenth century. The towers and ramparts were erected by William
de Grimoard in 1350. He had been prior of the monastery of S. Victor,
and afterwards became pope under the name of Urban V. All this portion
of rising ground to the south of the old harbour seems to have been
the refuge of the first Christians. Excavations made in extending the
basin laid bare vestiges of catacombs of a very early period, earlier,
in fact, in some cases than the Christian era. In the fourth century
the monk Cassian founded a monastery above these catacombs. It was
destroyed by the Saracens and rebuilt, and became a vastly wealthy
foundation. The monastery on one side of the port, and the cathedral
with its appurtenances on the other, were not under the jurisdiction of
the municipal authorities of Marseilles; but each had its own town of
dependencies under separate government.
What remains of this famous abbey bears an aspect of a citadel rather
than of a church. It is an extraordinary jumble of parts, and from
without looks as if it were wholly planless.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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