The next visit was made to Vesuvius, and I having taken leave with regret of my fellow-travellers and school-fellows, whose journey terminated at Naples, proceeded to the Mount, accompanied by three foreign gentlemen—a Russian, a Pole, and a Dane. At this time (1819) the eruption of the volcano was very active, and an English naval officer had his arm broken on the previous day by a falling stone, owing to an unexpected change of wind; it being necessary during eruptions to approach the crater on the windward side. The party slept for a few hours at a hermitage half way up the ascent, in order to obtain a view of the rising sun over the Bay of Naples, which is certainly a most glorious sight. From this place the ascent is very rough—over sharp-pointed, heated lava; a stream of which, about six feet wide and four miles long, was then flowing, falling over a cliff and filling a valley beyond. Seen in the dark it was a bright red colour, but by daylight it was of a dull dark colour. A piece of it was scraped out, and the impression of a coin was made on it. The crater was nearly half a mile in diameter, and threw up large stones and ashes to a great height, accompanied by a fearfully roaring noise. The travellers were enabled to look down towards the bottom of the crater, but from the confusion of flames, gases, and smoke, no correct idea could be formed of its depth. The stream of lava was flowing from a hole at the side of the cone. The stones thrown up generally fell nearly perpendicularly, but the ashes are blown to leeward, generally towards the east, where the descent is extremely steep, and attended with some little danger. The ascent of the mount occupies several hours, but the descent on this side is effected with great rapidity. The travellers agreed to attempt it. You step with one foot on deep fine ashes, which slide down with you twenty or thirty feet; you then put down the other foot, sliding down in like manner, and so on alternately until you reach the bottom. The danger consists in over-balancing yourself, when you must roll down to the bottom—some 5,000 or 8,000 feet, I think—but by holding your head and shoulders well back you avoid this. From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia, across the Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea—having passed over the place where so many bushels of rings were collected from the fingers of the Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On my arrival at Barletta, I found a British gun-boat bound for Corfù, in which I embarked for that island. This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was thus accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France; those partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland; but for antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.