A Childhood in Brittany Eighty Years AgoSedgwick, Anne Douglas
History
A Childhood in Brittany Eighty Years Ago
Sedgwick, Anne Douglas
Brittany (France) -- Social life and customs
But to return to the _pardon_. I remember that on this occasion an
old cook in the family had permission to start two or three days
before the _pardon_, so that she might go all the way on her knees,
and during those days one met many such devout pilgrims making their
way on their knees along the dusty roads. Some of them came from far
distances. We children were called before dawn on the August morning,
and it was a sleepy, half-bewildered dressing by candle-light. As a
closed carriage made me sick, I was put into the coupé with papa and
_maman_. Eliane, Ernest, their nurses, and all the other servants,
followed in a sort of omnibus, and behind them came all the horses,
trotting gaily along the road to share in the blessings of this great
day of the Assumption of the Virgin. The horses of Brittany, it will
be conceded, are a specially favored race. Although I was in the coupé
and had all the freshness of the early air to invigorate me, I
remember of the journey from Loch-ar-Brugg to Folgoat only that I was
deplorably sick, and the greatest inconvenience to my parents.
Fortunately, I was restored the moment I set my feet upon the
ground.
[Illustration: "Je me sauve," he would exclaim]
We were to be entertained for the day at Folgoat by the curé, and to
lunch with him and with the bishops at the presbytery; but we were
already ravenously hungry, so, although papa and _maman_ must continue
to fast until after taking communion at the early service, we children
had a splendid picnic breakfast in the presbytery garden, and a
jellied breast of lamb is my first recollection of the day at Folgoat!
Then we went out to see the great festival. Seventy-five years or more
have passed since that day, and it still lives in my mind with a
beauty more than splendid, a divine beauty. In the vast plain, under
the vast, blue sky, six bishops, glittering with gold and precious
stones, celebrated mass simultaneously at six great altars among
thousands of worshipers. It was a sea of color under the August sun,
and the white _coiffes_ of the women were like flocks of snowy doves.
There was an early mass, and the high mass at eleven. When this was
over, we assembled at the presbytery to lunch with the bishops. The
table was laid in Anne de Bretagne's council-chamber, its stone walls
covered with archaic figures, and it must have been a picturesque
sight to see the bishops sitting in all their splendor against that
ancient background; but what I most remember are the stories they told
of Louis XI and his misdeeds, which seemed to me more interesting and
more cruel than the Arabian Nights and Ali Baba and his forty thieves.
In the church itself was shown a superbly carved bench where, it was
said, while praying, he ordered with a nod the death of a Breton noble
who had refused to do him homage. When we went into the church after
lunch to see this bench, I sat down on it, and my long golden curls
were caught in the claws of the interlaced monsters on the back, and I
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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